We all scream for ice-cream

Ice-cream is the most popular dessert in the UK and is served by 75% of food service outlets, according to market research company Foodservice Intelligence. As the market continues to grow, ice-cream manufacturers are responding to the needs of caterers by producing pack sizes and varieties specially designed for the sector.

There was a mixed reaction to their efforts among the six chefs who this month made up Chef‘s ice-cream tasting panel at the Swallow Highcliff hotel, Bournemouth (soon to be renamed the Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott following its acquisition by Whitbread). Although most of the panellists recognised a place somewhere in the market for the 10 products they tried, only two of the products got a unanimous thumbs-up.

Mass-produced?

Mike Dobson, executive head chef at the Swallow Highcliff, thought that overall, each of the ice-creams had something good about it. James Watson, chef de partie at the Chewton Glen hotel, where all ice-cream is made in house, thought all the products looked mass-produced. Lui Hollomby, chef patron at Rouille restaurant, who also makes his own ice-cream, felt that while a couple of the products were very good, the rest were only fair.

"The texture is important in choosing a good ice-cream," said Hollomby. "It's a dead giveaway when products have been over-churned, because there is so much air in them that they dissipate quickly in the mouth and fall flat. A well-made ice-cream will melt more slowly."

Luciano Trisconi, chef-proprietor at Isabel's restaurant, Poole, felt most were mediocre. Philip Burt, head chef at Bistro on the Beach, Christchurch, was surprised at the number of poor products from premium manufacturers.

Darren Martin, head chef at West Beach restaurant, Bournemouth, felt that only two of the products were of suitable quality for the catering market. "The others offered good value for home use, but the quality was not good enough for a professional kitchen," he said.

The panellists judged the ice-cream according to six criteria - visual impression, aroma, texture, flavour, overall rating and value for money.

The tasters

Mike Dobson, executive head chef, Swallow Highcliff hotel (Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott from April) and our host for the day.

The town's largest hotel is undergoing a major refurbishment. As well as catering for the holiday trade, it also serves as headquarters for political party conferences. In the 200-seat à la carte restaurant, which will change its name to Sea Breeze under the new owners, there are daily tastings of new items on the menu. "We include branded ice-creams, but also make our own flavour, such as coconut, every day," says Dobson.

Lui Hollomby, chef patron, Rouille restaurant, Milford-on-Sea.

The 24-seat restaurant serves contemporary French cuisine and includes a home-made ice-cream or sorbet with all its desserts. Varieties always include an unusual flavour, such as gingerbread. "Aromas are hard to distinguish in ice-cream unless they are fruit-based and they must taste of what they are supposed to be," says Hollomby.

Darren Martin, head chef, West Beach restaurant, Bournemouth.

Specialising in Mediterranean cuisine, seafood and tapas, the restaurant rarely offers ice-cream on the menu, but its beach kiosk can amass £1,000 worth of ice-cream sales in one day during the summer. "Vanilla's a great all-rounder," he says.

James Watson, chef de partie, Chewton Glen hotel, New Milton, Hampshire.

This New Forest hotel operates a 120-seat award-winning restaurant and offers eight flavours of in-house ice-cream on its menu, used mainly as a garnish. "Most of the products were very poor," said Watson. "Only two were really good and while the textures were quite good in most of the others, the flavours needed to be a lot stronger."

Philip Burt, head chef, Bistro on the Bridge, Christchurch.

The 90-seat bistro opened last November, specialising in modern English food. Burt buys his ice-cream from local suppliers but wanted to establish links with different sources. "We should have brought the children," he said. "They would have made better tasters."

Luciano Trisconi, partner, Isabel's restaurant, Poole.

Although the French restaurant's menu does feature some home-made ice-creams, Trisconi doesn't sell a great deal. "We find it is mostly children who go for ice-cream and usually want a mix of flavours," he said. "Adults tend to have it as an accompaniment to hot desserts."