Bergerac bounces back
Over the past decade the wines of Bergerac and its associated appellations have fallen out of favour. Although it has never been hot like Chile or Australia, there was a time in the 1980s when Bergerac was quite fashionable. Then, Nick Ryman at Château Jaubertie was making a name both for his property and the region. Also, an increasing number of Brits were holidaying in the Dordogne as well as buying second homes there.
Since then, through family troubles, Jaubertie has gone into decline, the wine world's attention has moved on to other emerging wine regions and Bergerac has been forgotten. Now, a new generation of vignerons has taken over and there are some very good wines about at attractive prices. The big advantage for restaurateurs is that many of the supermarkets have listed these wines, especially at the cheap end, leaving the way open to find exciting wines from individual properties through wholesalers.
The 12 appellations of the Bergerac region centre on the Dordogne Valley. In total there are some 13,000 hectares planted, which is about an eighth of the size of its neighbour Bordeaux. The vineyards stretch for some 60km from just east of Castillion-la-Bataille eastwards to about 10km east of Bergerac. With the exception of the appellations of Montravel and Pécharmant, most of the vineyards are to the south of the Dordogne. The wines come in all three colours and have a resemblance to Bordeaux, as they use the same grape varieties: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle for the whites.
Unfortunately, the complications of these appellations are a pub quiz nerd's dream. Montravel, for example, has three appellations: Montravel for dry white, and Côtes de Montravel and Haut Montravel for sweet wines.
As always, the most important name on the label is that of the producer. Luc de Conti at La Tour de Gendres (Caves de Pyrene 01483 538820 or H&H Bankcroft 020 7627 8700) is certainly one of the leading names. He makes a whole range of wines in a wide range of prices. At the top end, these wines - in particular the white Anthologie - are the equivalent in price of top Bordeaux, but there are other more affordable cuvées. Lea & Sanderman (020 7244 0522) have the Bergerac Sec Cuvée des Conti 1998 at £54.
Overlooking the town of Bergerac is the Monbazillac appellation, which has gone through a renaissance over the past decade. The most famous estate is now ChateÁ¢u Tirecul la GraviÁ¤re (Lea & Sandeman). The sumptuous Cuvée Madame is the top wine. The 1997 is £540. However, Les Pins 1996, a second wine, is a more affordable £87.
by Jim Budd
