Chilterns connoisseur
From the outside, the Sir Charles Napier at Chinnor, Oxfordshire, deep in the Chilterns, could be yet another attractive country pub. Indeed, for many centuries it was just that - a simple rustic alehouse. But the old-fashioned, red-brick and flint building tucked away down a small sleepy lane is now where some of Oxfordshire's best cooking takes place, and its wine list is one of the most highly acclaimed in the country.
The surprises start as soon as you make your way into the low-beamed restaurant. Over the 25 years she has owned the Sir Charles Napier, proprietor Julie Griffiths has gradually built up an extraordinary collection of eclectic artefacts with which to furnish the old alehouse.
Mismatched sofas and armchairs, battered antique tables and kilim rugs form the base for stone sculptures, bizarre effigies, and odd antiques picked up here and there. At the back of the restaurant, a large garden is peopled with more sculptures - some marble, others iron. There is a beautiful terrace that in the summer is covered in vines and dining-tables. The effect is bohemian, arty, reminiscent of past times.
Not so the approach to wine, which has been hauled firmly into the modern age. Presiding over the vast list is Chris Hutton, Julie Griffiths' son-in-law, a 29-year-old with an encyclopaedic knowledge of his subject. Hutton joins his mother-in-law and wife, Caroline, front of house - this is truly a family business - but he is given free rein to choose the wine, and acts as sommelier to boot.
Hutton began his professional life in Oxford, working for wine merchants Stevens Garnier and Fine Vintage Wines. He learnt the basics of wine-buying from the two Masters of Wine who employed him, David Stevens and Patrick Grubb, later moving to manage a wine bar in Oxford city centre.
In the early 1990s, after his marriage to Caroline Griffiths, he relocated to the Sir Charles Napier, inheriting what was already an impressive wine list. Stan Park of Milford Sandford Wines had built up an extraordinary cellar for the restaurant, including many fine and rare wines. When Park moved abroad, Hutton slipped seamlessly into his shoes, expanding the list to more than 300 wines.
Hutton's enthusiasm shines through in both the sheer scope of wines on the list and the brief but precise notes that preface each section. He is particularly proud of the small parcels of fine and rare wines which he sniffs out from his suppliers (see below). In particular, Jasper Morris, of Morris & Verdin, has provided him with several prize finds from Burgundy, while broker Turville Valley Wines picks up other gems at auction.
"I'm not interested in the longevity of my wines, rather in putting fascinating bottles on the list," says Hutton. He reckons his clientele is relatively knowledgeable about wine: "Yes, our list is eclectic, and we get people coming out here precisely because they know that's the case."
Hutton's highlights:
Champagne Bruno Paillard Cuvée Première Brut NV, £28.95
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Domaine de Bois Guillaume 1993, Jean Yves Devevey, Burgundy, France, £17.95
Le Montrachet Grand Cru, Comte Lafon 1968, Burgundy, France, £58
Coulée de Serrant 1978, Grand Cru Savenniäres, Mme Joly, Loire Valley, France, £58
Chardonnay 1994, Jeffrey Grosset, Piccadilly Hills, South Australia, £19.75
Sancerre Rosé 1994, Domaine Paul Prieur, Loire Valley, France, £17.95
Château Patache d'Aux 1982, Grand Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, £29.50
Shottesbrooke Cabernet Merlot 1992, McLaren Vale, South Australia, £16.75
Domaine de Trevallon 1989, Coteaux de Baux, Provence, France, £19.95
Chambers Liqueur Muscat, Rutherglen, Australia, £17 a half-bottle/£3.95 a glass
Loire champion
The Sir Charles Napier has long been a champion of Loire whites. Hutton lists nearly 20 of these wines, and is keen to suggest Chenin Blanc as "a great match for fish". He is just as eager to recommend the opulent wines of Alsace: "I think of them as the Cinderella wines of France - always under-appreciated. That section could never be long enough for me."
Those other deeply complex whites, fine German wines, he finds more difficult to sell. "They are, sadly, right out of fashion and I can rarely get diners to try them. It's sad when you think that we list a producer of the calibre of Dr Loosen."
Another country that Hutton currently finds difficult is South Africa. "I've no doubt that there are some superb wines on their way, but with all the changes in the South African wine industry, I'm inclined to let the dust settle at the moment and reassess the range in a couple of years."
Indeed, if there's one section he would like to expand, it's the short entry headed Lebanon, South America and South Africa. "Everyone has a weak spot on their list, and currently that's ours. I'll be expanding it soon."
That said, the restaurant has always had strong New World listings from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. Entirely in keeping with the characterful atmosphere of the place, the eccentric wines of California's Bonny Doon are long-term favourites, as are the rich Shirazes of St Hallett in South Australia, and the idiosyncratic Frog's Leap range from California's Napa Valley.
Back in France, Rhône Valley reds are among Hutton's favourites. His house red is Guigal's Côtes du Rhône 1991 - "a versatile red. I've tried to pick something that's not too light and not too rich - a good group wine. If you've got lots of people dining together, they're not going to choose something different for each dish so you need a flexible red".
Eight house wines are highlighted at the front of the list. The selection changes monthly. "Obviously, I try to choose wines that are on especially good form, but I also attempt to match the season. Time of year is important when you're choosing a style of wine."
Hence, one of Hutton's favourite wines this summer is a Jurançon from Domaine Cauhapé, which he describes as "elegant, summery and offering a lovely retreat from the more rumbustious flavours of the New World."
Or he tries to persuade diners to try a rosé, especially out on the vine-clad terrace. "We've currently got a Sancerre rosé made from Pinot Noir which has been very gently pressed. It's delicate, a delicious summer pink - but I know it's unfashionable. I've just got to get out there and sell it to them."
If sheer enthusiasm has anything to do with it, I am sure he will.
