Choc lit

23 March 2005
Choc lit

You might think that choosing my favourite culinary books on chocolate would be easy, but although there are a number of chocolate books on the market, very few are of genuine quality for the professional chef. However, here are a few which I reckon meet the grade…
La Maison du Chocolat
Robert Linxe
Editions du Chne
ISBN 2-84277-236-9
Robert Linxe is an undisputed world master of the art of chocolate and has influenced French chocolate for the past 25 years, creating for it a very chic and elegant image. He has shops in Paris, London, New York and Tokyo. In this book he has included a great range of dishes, such as Andalousie, with its layers of dark chocolate cream sandwiched with a citrus curd; Moccambo, with its layers of raspberry and chocolate ganache on an almond biscuit; and classics like tarte au chocolat and simple florentines. The book is comprehensive in content with beautiful photography.

Chocolate, the Definitive Guide
Sara Jayne-Stanes
Grub Street
ISBN 1-904943-12-8
A lifetime of work has gone into this book, and it is one of the few that cover the subject of chocolate in all its aspects in great depth. The book gives a detailed history of chocolate as well as explaining its life from pod to palate (see page 22), covering areas such as what to drink with chocolate and incorporating recipes along the way. Recipes feature nearly every chocolate dish that has been created - from G‰teau l'Opera to hot chocolate fondant and chocolate sorbet. And it also has an excellent chocolate directory with a useful range of chocolatiers and p‰tissiers, suppliers of chocolate and chocolate courses.
Cocoa - All About It
Historicus (published 1891)
This is one of my favourite books and was probably the first to provide in-depth detail about the history of chocolate. It looks at the cultivation of the cocoa plant and follows its journey from pod to bar, including some fascinating photography of chocolate machinery used at Cadbury's and some great illustrations of cocoa plantations.
Chocolat, l'Envers du Decor
Phillipe Bertrand and Phillipe Marand
Les Editions de l'If
ISBN 2-914449-00-3
What I like about this book is that it unearths many of the hidden secrets of chocolate decoration. The task demands a whole host of skills, from preparing chocolate copeaux and fans to moulding and centrepiece work. The book also has a selection of chocolate-based desserts.
The Chocolate Companion
Chantal Coady
Apple
ISBN 1-85076-618-5
Not only does this book detail the history of chocolate and its styles, but it also includes an exhaustive chocolate directory covering some of the worlds best chocolate-makers - eg, Christian Constant and Bernachon - plus brands and manufacturers. Also interesting is its informative background to the business, and tasting notes.
Simply Chocolate
Robert Oppeneder
(author and publisher)
ISBN 3-9803998-0-X
Robert Oppeneder runs the excellent international school of decor and confectionery art in Munich, and this book's real beauty is its detail about the preparation of figures, eggs and casting chocolate.
Au Coeur des Saveurs
FrŽdŽric Bau
Montagud Editores
ISBN 8-472120-74-0
A must for any p‰tissier, chocolatier or chef. FrŽdŽric Bau is the chef-director at chocolate producer Valrhona, so, unsurprisingly, he has a wonderful knowledge and understanding of chocolate. He clearly understands the science of chocolate and the book contains detailed technical explanations. From tempering and dipping, to preparing emulusions, to creating the finest ganaches.
There is also a wide range of p‰tisserie in its pages. Entremets such as Jupiter, a Pur Caraibe chocolate mousse hinted with caramel on a Sacher sponge cake; or Macabo, a coconut sponge cake with a passion fruit cream layered with white chocolate sheets. His desserts are fabulous. All the dishes are accurately laid out with excellent recipes and photography.
Belgian Chocolates
Roger Geerts
Lannoo
ISBN 1-85076-618-5
Roger Geerts is a legend of Belgian chocolate, and this book's strength is its array of information about everything from truffles to candies. It covers moulded chocolates, bonbons and caramelising in a number of traditional recipes. It's well laid out and easy to follow, with useful tips for the chef.
Apprenez L'Art du Chocolat
Pascal Brunstein and GŽrard-Jo‘l Bellouet
ISBN 2-95037-405-0
Pascal Brunstein is one France's best chocolatiers, and in this book he offers excellent techniques on the handling of chocolate for centrepiece and themed work. The book also has a selection of entremets, cakes and plated desserts.
Chocolate Desserts
Pierre HermŽ
Little, Brown
ISBN 0-316-35741-3
Pierre HermŽ is another top French p‰tissier. Although this book is relatively mainstream and has US weights, it reveals some great chocolate desserts, such as chocolate, coffee and whisky cappuccino, and chocolate and port-steeped fig tart. Is also includes truffles, biscuits, ice-cream and chocolate drinks.

William Curley, chocolatier and p‰tissier, is co-owner of William Curley, 10 Paved Court, Richmond, Surrey. Tel: 020 8332 3002

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