Double vision

16 November 2000
Double vision

Paris comes to Knightsbridge on 21 November when London's Restaurant One-O-One executive chef Pascal Proyart and his brigade of 12 are joined by the two-Michelin-starred Gérard Vié of Les Trois Marches at the Trianon Palace hotel in Versailles, near Paris.

The two Gallic chefs have been putting their heads together for the past few months to devise a menu combining Vié's earthy, rustic "cuisine de terroir" with Proyart's fish expertise. "For both of us, the highest quality products form the basis of our cooking," says Proyart, who approached Vié with the idea of a collaboration and was greatly inspired by a visit to Les Trois Marches earlier this year.

The resulting menu, which will be available at lunch and dinner until 2 December, offers three courses with three choices of starter and main dishes and a set dessert for £27. Unlike the usual offering at One-O-One, fish has a presence but is not the main emphasis.

"Vié does a lot of meat at Les Trois Marches and while we don't do much here, I do like my fish to be cooked in the same way as meat - for instance, roasted with olive oil," says Proyart, who has been at the80-seat restaurant in the Sheraton Park Tower hotel since 1998, after stints at two Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Brussels.

Seafood does kick off the selection of starters, however, in the form of a tartare of lobster with a herb salad and aromatic dressing. The lobster is spiced with ginger, garlic and lemon grass - flavours echoed in the dressing and enhanced by the salad of verveine, coriander, parsley, lemon balm, chervil, roquette, Swiss chard and baby spinach dressed with oil and lemon juice.

Or there is foie gras married with pink grapefruit, a successful combination on Vié's menu for 25 years. For Proyart, it seemed a natural choice to include, with some of the bitterness of the grapefruit sauce - already mellowed by roasting the grapefruit - being absorbed by a serving of sweet potato blended with cream cheese.

Among the main courses is one of the flavours that most impressed Proyart during his visit to Versailles - the unusual combination of lamb with anchovy and cocoa. To give the lamb a gentle scent of anchovy, the meat is stuffed with a mix of anchovies, garlic and olive oil an hour before cooking. "The flavours mascerate through the meat and give it a saltiness," says Proyart. The roast lamb is then served with a lamb jus flavoured with cocoa, giving it a bitterness and a grainy texture.

To finish, Proyart has chosen a light and refreshing dessert comprising a range of berries - strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants and blackberries - macerated in sugar and lime for about half an hour, covered with a chilled lime sabayon and topped with a fruit sorbet made with pineapple, raspberry, blackcurrant and banana.

Sommelier Emmanuel Niotakis has selected wines to complement the menu, including St Aubin 1994 Louis Jadot and Santenay 1997 Louis Jadot, which are available for diners to buy. Restaurant manager Andrew Morgan expects the menu to be popular among the average 50 diners on weekday evenings, rising to 70 at weekends, spending an average of £45-£50 on food.

Restaurant One-O-One, William Street, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RN. Tel: 020 7290 7101

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