Fisher king

Taking over as head chef at the Waterside restaurant in Fowey's Marina hotel has given Nick Fisher the chance to go back to his roots. Not only has he returned to a fine-dining operation after time spent producing brasserie food as head chef of Brazz in Exeter, but he is also immersing himself in fish cookery once again.

He has worked previously at the Dorchester and Lanesborough hotels in London, and for 14 months as chef de partie on the fish section at the Savoy. "That's where my passion for fish comes from," says Fisher. "And it's a passion that has come back with a vengeance since arriving here in Fowey."

Fisher now enjoys the luxury of buying from the fishermen who land their catch just yards from the hotel. "The fish I'm using now is undoubtedly the best I've ever used," he says. "It's such a shame that more of the local businesses in Cornwall don't use it. I intend to use the fish to make the Waterside a destination restaurant - somewhere on the south coast of Cornwall people will be willing to travel to for great fish, just as they do to Rick Stein's restaurant in Padstow on the north coast."

While fish, unsurprisingly, dominates the Waterside's à la carte menu, there are a handful of meat and vegetarian dishes, too. About 25% of customers generally order non-fish dishes, such as the starter of warm tartlet with grilled quail, pea purée and truffle butter (£5.95) or the main course of fillet of beef with pesto, asparagus, foie gras and thyme (£22.50).

Fisher's menu, which is changed five times a year, offers a choice of 10 starters, four intermediary fish and shellfish dishes, 11 main courses, eight desserts and cheese.

"I like to offer the intermediary course, as it gives customers an opportunity to select a slightly more expensive starter or a less expensive main course," says Fisher, whose choice of dishes in this section includes seared scallops with langoustine and new potato salad (£11.95) and smoked salmon and crab rémoulade with minted lobster salad (£10.50). "Some customers order a double portion of one of these dishes as a large main course."

Most popular starter at present is the pan-fried red mullet served with a sauce vierge and pancetta-wrapped new potatoes (£7.95), while big sellers among the main courses include roasted turbot with scallops and bouillabaisse sauce (£26.00) and chargrilled sea bass with aubergine, tomato and basil (£16.95).

"I only ever season my fish lightly - just a little cracked pepper and Maldon salt - and use olive oil instead of butter to ensure the crisp, clean flavours of the fish always dominate," says Fisher.

Average spend in the 40-seat restaurant, which is frequented by yachtsmen and women, hotel residents and locals, is between £50 and £60 a head including wine.

Waterside Restaurant at the Marina Hotel, The Esplanade, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1HY. Tel: 01726 833315. Web site: www.themarinahotel.co.uk

Sample dishes from the menu at the Waterside restaurant

Salad of chargrilled vegetables, girolles and scallops, £8.95
Terrine of John Dory, saffron and spinach, £8.95
Seafood ravioli, leek and basil purée, Champagne sauce, £9.95
Fillet of brill with citrus fruits, crayfish ravioli and mint butter sauce, £23.50
Fillets of Dover sole with tagliatelle, truffle and asparagus, £23.50
Grilled lamb cutlets niÁ§oise, hummus and cumin, £21.50
Lemon brÁ»lée, red berry sorbet, £4.95
Apple tatin, £5.95
Raspberry soufflé, £7.50