Food File

01 December 2004
Food File

Fish
Storm warnings for Iceland and Norway mean supplies of cod, haddock and lemon soles might be affected, especially before the end of this week. If supplies are delayed there will be a knock-on effect into next week, and this could be the last week of cheaper fish. Weather around the UK is much better, especially along the South Coast where wild sea bass, black bream, brill (pictured), crabs, Dover soles, hake, plaice and scallops should all be plentiful.

Scallops from Scotland are, however, currently affected by an algal toxin. West Coast scallops can't be consumed, though others just need to be removed from the liver and gills before they are sold into the trade.

Finally, supplies of native monkfish could soon get tighter as the quota shutdown takes effect.
Source:

M&J Seafood
01296 588221
www.mjseafoods.com

Fresh produce Fresh waxed yellow beans are still available in limited supply, along with some late Italian borlotti beans. Long-stem violet artichokes (also from Italy) are available again, but they can have lethal spines so need careful handling and preparation. UK-grown early purple sprouting broccoli has been available, although the supply quantity needs to improve. Home-grown Brussels sprouts are, however, looking excellent and it promises to be a good season.

Shell-on nuts are now available ready for Christmas. These include hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds. Pecans will follow shortly. Prepacked Eat Me dates are also a seasonal favourite, with many varieties arriving from Tunisia now.

Huge pomegranates from California are spectacular and contain large red berries that make a fantastic sweet juice. Italian William pears remain excellent and plentiful, although the skins are thin and some are showing signs of damage sustained while on the trees.
Source:
Chefs' Connection
0207 627 4809
www.chefs-connection.com

  • We would like to point out that Caterer printed the wrong image alongside last week's fresh produce report. It was chicory, and not wild chicory as stated.

Meat
The grouse season has now virtually ended. Any birds available will be older and much less tender. Red-legged partridge, however, is at its best at the moment and there's plenty of wild venison on the market.

Scottish beef is very good, and is now being fattened up for the Christmas period. Free-range pork (pictured) is also very good, although lamb is now more difficult to come by. There remain plenty of cheaper foreign imports on pork, poultry and beef.

Source:
Aubrey Allen
024 7642 2222
www.aubreyallen.co.uk

…and how to use them

Cured roast pork loin, cauliflower and goats' cheese pur‚e, sage Brussels sprouts, prunes and almonds
Ingredients
(Serves four)
For the pork
1kg pork loin, trimmed of fat and sinew
4tbs fine salt
4tbs caster sugar
1tbs ground cinnamon
1tbs ground cumin
For the spiced almonds
75g blanched whole almonds
150g caster sugar
1tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cumin
For the Brussels sprouts
24 Brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered
3tbs chopped sage
4 slices pancetta, cut into lardons
50g butter
Drizzle of olive oil
Salt and pepper
Spiced almonds (recipe above)
For sage sauce
50g caster sugar
100ml white wine
200ml chicken stock
30g chopped shallots
1tsp whole peppercorns
2tsp chopped sage
Sage to finish
12 stoned semidried prunes
Salt and pepper

Method
For the pork, mix all dry ingredients together and rub over the pork. Leave for 24 hours and wash off, pat dry and portion into four pieces. To cook, colour in a hot frying pan and finish in the oven for six to eight minutes. Rest.

For the almonds, make a direct caramel with the sugar and add the almond and spices. Immediately place on to a nonstick sheet and allow to cool. When cold, blitz in a food processor.

For the Brussels sprouts, place the sage, butter, lardons and oil into a foil parcel and place in an oven at 180¡C for 12-15 minutes. Remove from the foil bag and add the spiced almond powder to taste.

For the sauce, make a direct caramel with the 50g of sugar, and add the shallots, peppercorns, sage and white wine. Reduce by half and add the chicken stock. Reduce by half and strain. Add the prunes. Season.

I serve this with a cauliflower and goats' cheese pur‚e, which I place in the plate's centre, then the sprouts and pork. Finish with the sauce and freshly sliced sage.

Nathan Outlaw, chef-proprietor of the Black Pig, Rock, Cornwall

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