Globalisation is not a dirty word

09 October 2002 by
Globalisation is not a dirty word

I was privileged to spend six days in Beirut at the end of August - even though that posting sounds like a joke ("We think so much of you here in London, Stephen, that we're sending you to Beirut").

I have to say I boarded the flight with some trepidation but, when I arrived, the bombed-out war zone of my fears was a sophisticated city of enormous charm.

Admittedly, many of the downtown buildings were new, but they had been constructed in the style of the old city, as it was before the 15-year conflict with Israel. Indeed, at 10.30 at night, still in 34° temperatures, there was a pavement café culture like that of any European city.

I was in the Lebanon to recce a chain of hotels and restaurants for an international group which was interested in acquiring it. The chain included an Italian trattoria and Parisian bakeries, as well as traditional Lebanese restaurants.

I assumed the non-traditional restaurants would be pseudo-European. It is true that, everywhere we went, the meal started with a huge basket or platter of crudités, but the restaurants were otherwise true to the promise above the door. If they said they were Italian, they were Italian.

The people I met were mainly Arab Muslims, but I encountered an eclectic mix of nationalities and religions, among both restaurant staff and their customers.

I have done a lot of travelling in the USA and Europe, but this was my first contract in the Middle East, and it made me think about globalisation.

There are so many negatives attached to the term - it has had a very bad press. What you never hear about are the benefits of the international hospitality industry.

During my six days in Beirut, I learned more about history, politics and religion than I have since I was at school. Everywhere I went, there were people eager to explain what they did, to ask after old haunts (many had worked in the UK at some time), or to give me the background to a particular style of cooking.

Hospitality provided us with a shared understanding, a common language.

Jewish migrants took the deli to New York; Bangladeshis brought the Indian restaurant to Britain. Food has always been one of the gifts expatriates bring to their new home. It generates income and helps to smooth the path to integration. Gradually, cuisines have spread.

It can only be a good thing for entrepreneurs to open restaurants in new locations, providing locals with a glimpse of an alternative culture.

Gunboat diplomacy might have worked in the 19th century but, for the 21st century, I prefer to put my faith in restaurant diplomacy.

Stephen Evans is chief executive of Food That Delights; chairman of First! Venues; a member of the Restaurant Association national committee; and chairman of its education and training sub-committee

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