Harry's game

Gaby Huddart goes wild about Harry's, then heads to Hampshire in search of an HourGlass figure.

After more than a decade working at London establishments such as the Savoy, the Four Seasons, Harvey Nichols and Prism, Simon Rogers returned to his birthplace of Hull at the beginning of this year.

While it was partly due to his marriage and impending fatherhood - "London is a single man's city" - Rogers' move northwards was to take advantage of what he saw as a massive career opportunity as chef-manager of new restaurant Harry's.

"This is the first restaurant of local businesswoman Jayne Briggs," he says, "and, while she did all the design herself, she was happy to give me carte blanche with the food and management. There aren't many jobs where you have that freedom as a chef, unless you own the restaurant yourself."

Over the past few months, Rogers' mission at the 75-seat Harry's has been to make it the most "foodie" eaterie in the city. And, he claims, he and his brigade of six are already making their mark, with diners coming from as far afield as York and Leeds.

Covers are currently averaging 25 at lunch and 40-50 in the evening - more on Friday and Saturday nights - with average spend per head running at £40, including wine.

Diners choose from a menu boasting 10 starters, eight mains, six side dishes and six desserts. Rogers changes this every six weeks or so to ensure that regulars always have something new - and "to keep the brigade inspired".

Currently, the best-selling starters on the menu are melon, spearmint, avocado sorbet and bacon (£4) and pan-fried salmon, patty potatoes with peas and minted jus (£6). "Patty potatoes are a local speciality and are basically mashed potato, shaped into a disc and deep-fried," he says. "I make mine with crushed peas, sage and mint running through them, and people love them - we sell loads."

At main course, the roast rump of lamb, dauphinoise potatoes, soubise with rosemary, Fleurie jus (£13) and roast duck breast with bubble and squeak en cage and Madeira jus (£14) are the joint top sellers of the moment. Rogers finds that customers particularly enjoy the presentation of the latter dish: a seared duck breast is topped with bubble and squeak, and then a lattice puff-pastry case is laid over the whole thing, while the jus is flooded around the outside.

Most diners also choose at least one side dish, so Rogers works hard to make these "more interesting than the norm". Options include garlic egg mayonnaise, pancetta and basil (£1.50), chargrilled courgettes, tomato fondue (£1.75), vine-ripe tomatoes with mozzarella (£2) and buttered peas with spearmint (£2).

At dessert, meanwhile, the chocolate tart with vanilla sauce (£4.50) is proving a big hit, as is the English strawberry club sandwich and clotted cream (£4.50). "For this dish," says Rogers, "we put the strawberries between layers of sweet pastry, which is cut into triangles, so it looks like pieces of bread. And we finish it with little pieces of vanilla, which look like the cocktail sticks in a club sandwich."

A selection from the menu at Harry's

Chilled cauliflower soup, toasted almonds, croutons and crème fraîche, £3
Warm buttered crab and potato tartlet, deep-fried egg, mayonnaise, £7
Deep-fried basil risotto, roast scallop and salsa verde, £6
Pan-fried calves' liver, soft polenta, pancetta and grain mustard jus, £12
Red mullet, hash potatoes with saffron, basil and olive dressing, £14
Rare seared tuna, Moroccan-style aubergine, chermula dressing and hummus, £13.75
Summer pudding, chantilly cream, £4
Blackcurrant meringue tart, £4
Plate of cheese, toasted raisin brioche, £5.50

Harry's, 14 Livingstone Road, Hessle, Hull HU13 0EG. Tel: 01482 646400