Here to stay
Contrary to popular belief, wine regions do not float in and out of fashion. Once a wine-growing area is pronounced hip by the trade, press and consumers, it tends to stay that way for quite some time. After all, unlike the rag trade, the wine industry takes a long time to get new products on to the shelves. Once a region becomes all the rage, new vineyards are planted, which take several vintages to come on stream, and the top wines must be aged carefully if they are to live up to expectations.
So most of the places worth keeping an eye on in 2001 were already being talked about in 1998, and will still be hot in 2003. It's enough to make a fashion designer sick.
The word "hot" when used to describe an up-and-coming wine region is a wonderful misnomer. Hot is not the word - cool regions are the coolest around, and have been for some time. Wine drinkers in the 21st century prefer a certain elegance, crispness and lightness. Tired of big, blockbuster, overripe styles, we crave more acidity and complexity in our wine these days, and we get that from cool-climate fruit. So, starting down under, it's no surprise that chillier regions such as central Otago in New Zealand and Tasmania in Australia should find themselves the centre of attention.
Central Otago must rank as the most cultish wine-making spot in the world. This scenic, mountainous, inland region in the cool depths of New Zealand's South Island is home to a clutch of new star wineries such as Felton Road, Rippon and Mount Difficulty. Despite the region's image as new kid on the block, it is already the fourth-largest vineyard region in the country, according to Felton Road importer Christopher Fielden. "The big advantage of the region is that it has very long daylight hours, because it is so far south," he says. Plantings are set to increase by 110% over the next three years, he adds, so the ridiculously small UK allocations may soon be a thing of the past.
"The acids are higher than from any other wine region," says Mount Difficulty's Victoria Watson, "and it has very little wind, sunny days and cool nights. The fruit never gets cooked on the vine." The hippest and best wine style to come out of the region is ripe, smooth Pinot Noir, but elegant Chardonnays, Sauvignons and Pinot Gris can be very impressive, too.
In Australia, there are several areas whose wines provoke heated discussion in trendy Sydney and Adelaide wine bars. Margaret River, south of Perth, remains fascinating, and is attracting more and more big names, while Adelaide Hills and the Mornington Peninsula also remain deeply fashionable cool-climate spots. But perhaps more interesting is Tasmania, which is creating complex and subtle Chardonnays, racy aromatic whites, some of the finest sparklers in Oz, and exciting Pinot Noir. Crisp, whistle-clean, pure fruit flavours are the hallmarks of the island's style.
Then there's Orange. The future's certainly bright for this region, 150 miles north-west of Sydney in the Central Ranges zone of New South Wales. This is a relatively high-altitude spot, with vines planted between 600m and 1,050m above sea level. Wines from Orange (try the Cabonne labels) have been compared to those from Burgundy, and the area looks set to rival Adelaide Hills for the quality of its Chardonnay.
Across the Pacific, in California, where the Napa and Sonoma regions are still by far the best known, another large area is causing a stir. The Central Coast, which stretches from San Francisco to Los Angeles, incorporates such important sub-regions as Edna Valley (known for wonderful Chardonnay), Monterey (Pinot Noir) and Santa Barbara (both).
John McLaren of the California Wine Institute says: "It's difficult to sum up this large area, because some vineyards are closer to the coast than others, and there are mountains in places, so you're looking at many different micro-climates. But we are seeing a boom there." Quality is up, as wineries plant vineyards with the varieties that actually suit each site, rather than going for commercial plantings with which to make jug wine. Look for fine Pinot and Italian red varieties, in particular, from the Central Coast.
Another New World region enjoying a buzz of popularity at the start of the 21st century is Malmesbury/Darling in the far west of South Africa, where wonderfully ripe and smooth reds are emerging, often from old bush vines previously used to make cheaper fare. Look for the Spice Route reds, and wines from a new "fair trade" project called Tukulu, to see how exciting this previously underrated area has become.
Then there's Uruguay. Sure, Chilean and Argentinian wines remain popular, but Uruguay is the place most wine writers want to visit at the moment. Its wines can still be a little rough and ready, but with the rich, leathery Tannat variety as its unique selling point, Uruguay is tipped for better things. It has been estimated that 1,700 more hectares of vines will be planted in the next two years.
Not all the most exciting hot spots are in the New World (though many are, since these are the countries still being explored by viticulturists). In Spain, some interesting new developments are taking place in traditional "workhorse" regions such as Campo de Borja and Jumilla. Much better quality wine is the result of new equipment being hauled into the wineries, and old bush vine fruit is being used more carefully. But right now, the most interesting and fashionable regions in the country must be Tarragona (for reds - check out the big, but beautiful Garnacha-based wines) and Galicia (for whites - those Albarinos are now in serious demand for their delightful lime and peach flavours).
It's a matter of hot debate which Italian region is currently the most stylish and fascinating, such is the choice from this intricate wine country. As always, some amazing progress is being made in the centre of the country, including Tuscany. But for sheer value, as well as a breathless rate of change, I nominate Sicily.
A few years ago it was just as well to avoid Sicilian wine - this was an island of old-fashioned producers, and clumsy, baked wine styles. Since then there has been a revolution. Rich, modern Chardonnays set to compete with the New World have appeared, as have some widely admired complex reds, from wineries such as Planeta and Regaleali. The Sicilians are mastering their climate and using international and local varieties; this is one case where a hot region really is hot.
It would be mean to leave out Portugal, as the Douro's rich and fruitcake-scented table reds are certainly causing a stir. They appeal to those who like both the blockbuster New World red style - and, er… port.
One other European country deserves a quick mention, and it might at first sight seem surprising in a list of fashionable hot spots. Step forward Greece, which has gone from nowhere to be one of the wine trade's hot tips for the future. Modern Greek wines, pioneered on the export market by Oddbins, range from light, crisp, aromatic whites made from local varieties through oaky Chardonnays to surprisingly claret-like reds. Anyone for a glass of Xynomavro?
