In pursuit of perfection

Philip Golding, Executive Chef, Fashion cafe, Manila, Philippines

LITTLE more than a year ago Philip Golding thought his future as a chef was in London. Having worked in Italy and France, he saw himself settling in one of the UK capital's numerous restaurants.

But the past few months have changed Golding's mind and convinced him that his future lies not only in a different country but on a different continent.

Since moving to the Philippines in February last year to work at Mediterranean restaurant Paper Moon, Golding has discovered a new lifestyle and he loves it. "I am probably working harder than ever but for the first time I am really enjoying my work and I don't feel under pressure," he says. "I might work 16 hours a day but I can always get out into the sunshine and the beach is only an hour away."

After 10 months at Paper Moon, in November Golding moved to the Fashion Café in Manila to take on the role of executive chef. He is supported by a 31-strong brigade including Tom Hines, who worked with him at Paper Moon.

Golding finds his Filipino employees very eager to learn, though he has to spend a lot of time training them. "I enjoy teaching such willing pupils and I find I have become a more patient and altogether nicer person as a result."

With his busy schedule, Golding has not had much time to practise for the National Chef of the Year final, particularly since the Fashion Café's recent official opening. "I've had some ideas and I'm planning to arrive in London 10 days before the competition so I can practise at Tutto!! in Sunningdale, the sister restaurant to Tutto!! in Chiswick, where I used to work."

1998 marks Golding's third time competing in National Chef of the Year, which he describes as "the cräme de la cräme" of competitions. "I used to enter all the local salons but now I prefer to concentrate on the major competitions," he says. He has more than 15 gold medals to date and has twice competed for Britain in the Epicurean World Master Chefs Society.

Although the prize money would be welcome, Golding stresses it is not his reason for entering. "I compete for the enjoyment and to stand up for my career," he says. "It's a lovely profession and it should be on display." n

Henrik iversen, executive chef, Quaglino's, London

Henrik Iversen is overjoyed to have made it through to the final 10 in this year's Craft Guild of Chefs National Chef of the Year competition - last time round he was a reserve finalist and never got to compete at the final.

But Iversen is not putting undue pressure on himself to win. For him, merely being in the final and having a good day out are what is important. "This is the hardest competition there is and to go out there and cook for three hours against the best will be great," he says. "I won't mind if I'm beaten by any of the others - they are all great chefs. I'll just do my best on the day and we'll see what happens."

Iversen sees no point in getting stressed by competing. He sees competitions as a relaxing part of the job and thinks they are vital to chefs' motivation.

"Competitions give us the chance to see things differently. All chefs serve good food, but in a competition we have the time to really concentrate on one dish so we can excel. That's a great buzz."

To date, the high points of Iversen's competing career are last year's regional semi-final for National Chef of the Year in Stoke, and being selected for ITT Sheraton's Culinary Olympic team in 1986.

"At the time I was working at the Sheraton Heathrow and I was selected to be flown to Boston for the cook-off. I really enjoyed that competition and was so proud," he says.

And two years ago at Hotelympia, when Iversen headed the team from London's Le Pont de la Tour restaurant in the cook-and-serve competition, also ranks among his best memories.

"When the judges were awarding the prizes and had called the bronze and silver medals we thought we hadn't won anything because we'd made a couple of mistakes," he says. "But then the judges announced we had won a gold medal and named us the best in class. That was an incredible feeling."

Now executive chef at London's 267-seat Quaglino's, Iversen will have to snatch what time he can to practise for National Chef of the Year as the job is proving very demanding. He manages 86 staff in total, 60 of them chefs and on a single shift will have 12 chefs on the sauce section alone.

"I started at Quaglino's in August and the first time I changed the menu, in October, I was very nervous," he reveals. "The size of the restaurant means everything has to be meticulous in the kitchen - the recipes and costings have to be 100% accurate. If I made a £1 costing mistake on a dish, it would add up to £20,000 a year, so I have to get it right."

Iversen's menus include classical dishes, such as venison pithivier with sauce foyot, side by side with Oriental ones, such as Thai fish cakes, or grilled tuna with black bean dressing, chilli and lime.

At the final, Iversen is likely to stick to classical dishes as he believes the basket of ingredients lends itself to this style of cooking. "That's fine with me. Even the most simple classics, like chicken chasseur, are excellent when they're cooked well."

Should Iversen scoop the title, he has several projects on which he would like to spend the £5,000 prize money. He would love to take his wife on holiday to show her Melbourne, where he spent several years working at the Grand Hyatt. A new motorbike also appeals to him (but don't tell his wife).

But better than the prize money is the professional acclaim that comes with the title, says Iversen. "I don't want to be famous, but would love respect from my peers. That's what National Chef of the Year is really about."