In time for a Noval Noël

This week's recommendation is a favourably priced late-bottled port, appropriate for Christmas. It is the new blend from Quinta do Noval branded as Noval LB.

This port qualifies as vintage character because it achieves its styles with a mixture of vintages. It should not be confused with late-bottled vintage, or LBV, which is a blend of wines from one year.

There are no rules stipulating a minimum age for ports described as vintage character, though the trade widely regards the term as meaning wood-aged ports with an average age of three-and-a-half to four-and-a-half years.

They are, in some respects, little more than premium ruby ports but skilful blending can produce a pleasing, approachable wine with some of the concentration of a vintage and the mellow quality of tawny.

This year, Noval increased the average age of its LB by six months to nearly five years.

"We feel it's worth having an older blend, though it means taking a lower margin," says Christian Seely, Noval's managing director.

Noval LB is available from Paragon Vintners (071-887 1800) at a trade price of £34 per case of six.