Lively classics
"I like the buzz of hotels - every day there are different challenges to be tackled," says Andrew Bennett, the new executive chef at London's Park Lane hotel. "The cooking can be the easy part."
While the Park Lane's lounge is buzzing, next door the 80-seat restaurant, Bracewells - all wooden panels, mirrors and silver - is in darkness, set up for evening service.
"We do want to keep the menu very British, keep it simple, and just do what we do well. That's in keeping with Bracewells. We've brought back the traditional trolley items, and we use British ingredients, such as organic beef.
"Taste comes before presentation. It's tempting to diversify, but that's been done before and, anyway, if people want Continental food we've got the brasserie here as well."
Although he's only been at the Park Lane just over a month, Bennett has a vision. In his three-and-a-half years as head chef at Sopwell House, St Albans, Hertfordshire, the same quiet determination saw him build up the kitchen brigade and build up the reputation of the food.
He has imported his former sous chef, James Lally, to be head chef of a brigade of four in the Bracewells kitchen. "We just click," says Bennett. "A minute ago we were brainstorming next week's lunch menu together. Our work is split entirely 50:50."
A weekly £25 table d'hôte menu is offered at lunch, usually with a choice of about four starters, five main courses and a different trolley dish each day. Examples include chicken and mushroom pie, sea bass in pastry with shredded vegetables, and roast duck with apple sauce and shallot stuffing.
A range of traditional desserts appears on the menu too and, if you opt for cheese, there is an eight-strong choice of British cheeses.
Bracewells clients mostly prefer to stay sober at lunchtime, so wine by the glass has proved popular. Among the recommended whites is Chablis Fourchaumes Premier Cru 1991 (£5.50 a glass) while the most expensive red is Château Labegorce, Nargaux 1985 (£5.70).
Many diners just have a glass of wine, and choose a main course from the 16 listed on the à la carte menu. From the selection of dishes prepared at the table, two diners can share roast saddle of hare with creamed celeriac and peppercorn sauce (£28).
If you want to sample the organic beef, Bennett recommends the fillet served with grated potato, roast shallots and garlic (£16) or a simple grilled sirloin steak accompanied by almond potatoes and courgettes Provençal (£14.50).
Bennett's baby, however, is his canon of lamb, which is sealed, baked in bread and herbs, and served with spinach and aubergine gêteau (£16).
His favourite starter is warm langoustine cooked in a little clarified butter, served with a roasted vegetable purée and a simple asparagus salad (£10.50).
Most customers spend about £35, be it lunch or dinner, and about 300 covers are served a week. Bennett is keen to increase this, and build up the banqueting side of the hotel's business.
Making his way back to the kitchen, he gets absorbed in a conversation about food costs. Phrases like "the bottom line" and "not compromising on quality" can be heard. It's clear Bennett is a man with a mission.
