Menu fit for a parliamentarian
IF OLIVER Cromwell were to return to the Lygon Arms hotel in Worcestershire's Broadway today, he would find some subtle changes. The Lord Protector, so the story goes, stayed at the hotel in 1651 on the eve of the Battle of Worcester, so he may be amused to find that the hotel's brasserie has recently been renamed in his honour.
The brasserie has gone further than naming itself after its illustrious guest - the walls now feature 17th Century scenes, and a portrait of Cromwell dominates the room. And the menu at Oliver's, formerly known as Goblets Wine Bar, has been overhauled by head chef Chris Coats, former sous chef in the hotel's main restaurant, the Great Hall, and by Graeme Nesbitt, who joined the hotel in May as head chef of both restaurants. "The dishes used to be very traditional," explains Nesbitt. The menu now features traditional dishes presented in a modern way, such as fish cakes served with a sorrel cream, or venison and apple sausages with spinach and celeriac mash.
As a rule the menu changes seasonally, but in-house printing allows more frequent alteration, depending on the availability of local produce and whatever is abundant in the hotel's garden. Dishes have become less complex, using fewer ingredients, although Nesbitt adds that the number of dishes has in fact increased to six starters and main meals and five dessert choices.
The cosy, 54-seat restaurant is at its busiest during the week, with around 50 lunchtime covers at an average spend of £7.55 per head, and 60-70 covers in the evening, with average spend increasing slightly to £8.86.
The most popular dish by far is a starter of warm English goats' cheese on toasted brioche with onion marmalade and bitter leaves (£5.25). Another favourite is fried Cornish cod with pease pudding and caramelised tomato (£8.75). Desserts tend to be light, such as the raspberry delice with fresh berry coulis (£3.75).
While the hotel's main restaurant is used mostly by hotel guests, the brasserie benefits from its street-level entrance, attracting much passing trade. "Some people just pop in for a bowl of soup," says Nesbitt. It has also proved a popular venue for locals as well as day-trippers and tourists staying in nearby bed-and-breakfast accommodation. n
Oliver's Brasserie, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DU. Tel: 01386 854418
