Mixing with molecules
Tony Conigliaro hates the term bar chefs. "We're not chefs, we're bartenders. It's just that our paths cross every now and again," says the bar manager of new London restaurant Shumi.
Conigliaro actually collided with one top chef - Heston Blumenthal, at the Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire - but you'll have to wait to read about that meeting of minds in our special Best of Chef supplement, free with next week's issue of Caterer. Blumenthal, you see, is an inspiration to him. "He's got so many ideas - so much vision," says Conigliaro, a tad star-struck.
But what's a bartender doing gleaning ideas from the likes of Blumenthal? Unless you've had your head in the sand over the past few years, you'll know about Blumenthal's antics on the molecular gastronomy front - and his antics with liquid nitrogen. Well, it got Conigliaro and his mates thinking. What if the foams, jellies and sorbets that Blumenthal and mentor Ferran Adri… are famous for could work somehow in cocktails?
"I've spent hours translating Adrià's cookery books," Conigliaro tells me. He's already working on egg white-based foams for various cocktails (he's not quite there yet), and on fruit suspended in gelatine, and ice, for garnishes. "And it would be great to have a canister of liquid nitrogen," he says, wistfully. "My cocktails would actually smoke."
Shumi must have been a tough brief - it's an Italian restaurant with a Japanese twist (their words). So is there a whole sake thing going on? "Not at all," replies the ex-Hakkasan and Isola bar manager. "We serve all Italian ingredients in the restaurant - it's just that it's served in a Japanese style. People don't have time these days for the big Italian meal. This is a way of presenting it in a lighter way - you don't walk away bloated." I get you. But there is a sushi bar - except they call it "susci" - where instead of wasabi they use infused olive oils and fresh herbs.
No, Conigliaro's bar is focusing on the martini and the Bellini (apparently, owners Jamie Barber and Geoffrey Moore are big fans of Harry's Bar, where the Bellini rules). There are five Bellinis, from raspberry and orange to Japanese white peach, and pear and cinnamon - whatever is good and in season at the supplier.
And he makes all the fruit purées fresh himself. Incidentally, if you've been adding Champagne to your Bellinis, you can stop that now. Conigliaro insists that it must be prosecco, and one that's not too dry. "It just works much better," he says.
Martini comes in several guises, including his signature, the Truffle Martini, with thin slithers of the prized fungus - black or white, depending on season - infused with the vermouth. "I operate a kind of solera system - the truffle is so pungent."
Other signatures include the Robin Hood - silver rum shaken with apple liqueur, lime cordial and a squeeze of lime, and the Elegante - lemon sorbet blended with vodka, fresh lemon, prosecco and ice. Conigliaro uses chefs' favourite, the Pacojet, for his sorbets. "They're awesome. I'm really into machines."
Then there's the Smuggler - which includes apple juice aerated in a siphon. "It actually changes the flavour of the apple," he says, excitedly. A homage to Blumenthal if ever there was one.
Shorts
Pub chain turns wine merchant JD Wetherspoon pubs have got into the business of selling wine off-premises with the launch of an online wine ordering service (though this sounds rather grand, as it is selling just two wines: Fetzer Coldwater Creek Red and Fetzer Coldwater Creek White). Called "Our house your home", the service was launched in response to customer demand for the wines. "We receive numerous requests from customers asking where they can buy the wine outside of Wetherspoon pubs, so it seemed a logical step to sell the wine direct to them," says Clare Martin, head of marketing for Wetherspoon's. According to Martin, the pubs sell a staggering 3.5 million bottles a year of the Californian brand, and the wine can be purchased as a case of red, white or mixed, at £59.98 for a 12-bottle case, including free UK delivery, plus a further saving of £5 for each additional case ordered. Will Wetherspoon's add any more wines to the list? "We are confident that it will be popular, and the range may be extended in the future," reveals Martin.
Cider is rosy Don't forget that October is National Cider Month. The campaign to boost the market for real ciders and perries is being organised by the folks at Camra (Campaign for Real Ale). The biggest cider producers have about 90% of the market, while more than 100 producers share the remaining 10%. Obviously, Camra wants to see more pubs and restaurants stocking ciders and perries from that 10%, believing it will lead to "a greater knowledge and appreciation of real cider among drinkers weaned on the usual mass-produced national brands". Go to www.camra.org.uk/cider for information about producers and details of events for the rest of the month.
Cognac release
Busta Rhymes and co will be pleased. Thomas Hine & Co have released their second set of vintage Grande Champagne Cognac: Hine 1957 (Jarnac-matured); Hine 1981 (early-landed in Bristol); and the Hine Vintage Discovery Pack of 3 x 20cl bottles of the 1960, 1975 and 1983 (all Jarnac-matured). The Cognacs are matured in the 18th-century cellars beneath Hine's offices in Jarnac, while some are shipped in cask within two years of distillation to England, where they are aged in bonded cellars near Bristol. For more information contact Paragon Vintners on 020 7877 1600.
