Nobody does it better
Near Exeter? That's a misnomer. The Nobody Inn may be only three miles away as the crow flies, but if you don't know the maze of narrow tractor-rucked lanes it is a hairy, helter-skelter of a drive from the A38 road. The sense of achievement when you do arrive, though, makes up for this.
The 16th-century beamed pub belongs to Nick Borst-Smith. Wine-lovers will probably already have heard about his 750-strong wine list, the 20 or so well-chosen house selections that sit on the oak bar, and the "wine shop" at the end of the bar crammed with bottles and displays of current wine magazines, estate-bottled extra virgin olive oils and herb-infused vinegars. But as locals and connoisseurs tuck into the food with equal enthusiasm, the menu deserves more than just a mention.
The flags identifying an outstanding cheese selection (£3.90) cause the most discussion. A wooden platter bearing local Devon cheeses, some of which Borst-Smith picks up from the farms himself, induce appreciative sounds. And if they are so enamoured, the customers can purchase a wedge or three to take home from Borst-Smith's 40-strong selection of cheeses - a profitable sideline.
The pub got its name after a lazy publican bolted the door against the knocking of weary travellers, pretending that there was nobody in. The name stuck and is used by Borst-Smith to sell a couple of popular dishes: the Nobody Soup (£1.95), ingredients of which he will not impart, suffice to say it has a curious blend of fruit added to the chicken stock base; and the Nobody Pâté (£3.10), a coarse, rich, duck liver pâté made with port and herbs.
The pub has two dining areas: the restaurant, which is open for dinner and occupies a smart room at the back of the pub, spilling out into the pub proper, with linen laid over the rough oak tables and serving about 30 covers; and the bar, open for lunch and dinner and serving about 40 covers.
Average spend is £14 (without wine) in the restaurant and £6.20 in the bar. Borst-Smith inherited chef Keith Finch when he took over the pub 25 years ago, and there is a full-time kitchen brigade of three.
The menu changes with a whim - dishes come and go, disappear and reappear. Prices are slightly higher on the restaurant menu, but you can order off this menu and eat in the bar - some prefer the hubbub.
There are daily changing specials of about 20 dishes which move with the seasons and depend on available produce. Borst-Smith is a keen fisherman, so trout appears frequently, wrapped in pastry and stuffed with an intriguing mixture of herb butter, sultanas and asparagus (£8.50).
Borst-Smith is particularly proud of his asparagus patch at the Manor House - a second property he owns down the street, which provides three additional rooms let on a bed-and-breakfast basis. Four rooms are available above the pub itself.
He is also excited about the globe artichokes that he has spent two years nurturing and which will hit the menu shortly, drenched in garlic butter. "They can pick away at the leaves," he says. Edible flowers and a gamut of herbs make up the rest of the crop, "there's no point in growing everyday things," he says, stroking his beard.
It is not every day you see a horse breakfast on the menu either. For for those trekking on horses, Borst-Smith provides stable, plus hay and straw, at a cost of £10. n
The Nobody Inn, Doddiscombsleigh, near Exeter EX6 7PS. Tel: 01647 252394
