On the spot – Jeff Baker – Taking a lead in leeds
So what's a nice chef like you doing in Leeds?
Actually, Leeds has really changed. When I first came to this restaurant, I remember looking down the street and it was full of disused warehouses and there were prostitutes and glue-sniffers. I just thought, "My God". Then I got to the restaurant and there were Rolls-Royces outside. That was eight years ago. Now the street's full of restaurants and wine bars.
What first led you into the industry? I come from a family of builders but there was no work in Teesside in the early 1980s, so I went to London. My first employer was Brian Turner.
Quite a different story for chefs starting out now?
Seems so. About five years ago there was a real boom and the business sector in Leeds really took off. That's levelled off, but what we're now seeing is the leisure sector catching up.
Has the type of customer changed?
Yes, we're getting a 25- to 35-year-old crowd in now and people here think nothing of eating out three or four times a week, so the brasserie is really busy.
Why would somewhere like Leeds appeal to a chef?
Quality of life. I was in London for about nine years, and as a junior all you do is work - but you have no money to do anything. Here, I walk to work, I finish by 10.30pm and I get to see Middlesbrough play as often as possible. If you've worked in London you appreciate these things.
What about the downsides? As a chef you can feel a bit isolated here, especially when you read about new places in London. Four or five times a year I go down to London just to keep in touch.
What's it like running Leeds's only Michelin-starred restaurant? When we first got the award I wasn't expecting it and it was brilliant, but I suddenly thought: "What if I lose it? That would be worse than not having one at all." So for the first few years I put a lot of pressure on myself.
What's the hardest thing about your job? Not seeing my kids enough.
So what is the job scene like in Leeds at the moment?
There's a lot of new places opening and I think they're struggling to find chefs. What you find is a lot of chefs who have worked with each other before, and they often change jobs a lot within the same circle, but people have been a bit cautious to move lately.
Does all this competition worry you?
No, it would be good to see some big names in Leeds. Marco Pierre White is from Leeds and he once said he would open a place here, but he never actually did. I am waiting for the day.
What's your advice to those looking for a great restaurant career in the North?
Pick up a copy of the Good Food Guide, choose where you want to work and go and knock on the door.
Interview by Christina Golding
