Refining the rustic

Among the locals at Fordingbridge in Hampshire, Greg Dawson, head chef of the HourGlass restaurant, has earned himself the nickname of "Jamie Oliver". He explains that this is because, every afternoon, like the celebrity superchef, he is to be spotted zooming around on his motor scooter between the food shops.

"I'm passionate about British food and using British ingredients - there's so much that's good in this country," he says. "I also think it's important to support the local community, so I use the neighbourhood butcher, fishmonger and greengrocer. They all supply me with fantastic food and I visit them every afternoon to discuss my orders."

Dawson also has a local supplier of quails' eggs, a man who hand-dives scallops for him, another who is licensed to pick New Forest mushrooms, and several individuals who shoot game for him.

"I know the origin of all my ingredients," he says, "and don't think they could be bettered by using imported goods."

His "refined British rustic menu", as Dawson describes it, has succeeded in building the 48-seat restaurant a loyal following during its first year of operation. It now achieves 100 covers a week at lunchtime and 160 at dinner, with diners coming not only from Fordingbridge but from the neighbouring towns of Salisbury, Bournemouth, Poole and even as far away as Southampton.

Average spend per head is £15-£20 at lunch and £35 at dinner, including drinks.

Dawson prepares his dishes with the help of his sous chef, Mark Williams, and just one other part-time commis. For this reason, he says, he keeps the dishes fairly simple, generally using no more than four components in each.

Of the six starters he offers, his favourite dish is seared scallops and crisp black pudding on mushy peas with smoked bacon sauce (£7.50). "I'm originally from Sheffield," he says, "and I like this dish because it uses ingredients - black pudding and mushy peas - that I was brought up with. I also like it because it's colourful, with the contrasting bright green, black and white. And it's got a good mix of soft and crispy textures too." And while virtually all other dishes change when new menus are introduced every season, the scallop dish is always available.

Of the eight mains, Dawson likes the pan-fried beef fillet on creamed Savoy cabbage and crisp potato cake with thyme sauce (£16.90) the most. "It's a very simple, very British dish and full of fantastic flavours," he says. "That's how I like my food."

And at dessert he is currently happiest with the orange tart with vanilla cream and citrus thyme syrup (£5), of which he says: "It's quite a sharp tart, very fresh and clean-tasting, and diners love it because it's not too heavy."

A selection from the menu at the HourGlass Restaurant

Dorset crab in marjoram crème fraîche with chargrilled fennel and sweet red peppers with walnut oil, £6.90
Grilled garlic field mushroom on olive-and-tomato bread with cucumber and mint dressing, £5.50
Smoked bacon, cherry tomato and garlic crouton salad with warm Brie dressing, £5.90
Roasted breast of guinea fowl on mash with a tarragon guinea fowl sausage and cream trompette sauce, £14.90
Pan-fried sea bass fillet on braised baby fennel with a beer-battered king prawn and tomato butter sauce, £16.50
Roasted rack of spring lamb with celeriac gratin, redcurrant and port sauce, £15.90
Strawberry panna cotta with clotted cream and stewed strawberries, £5
HourGlass chocolate mousse delight with chocolate and honey syrup, £5

The HourGlass restaurant, Salisbury Road, Fordingbridge, Hampshire SP6 1LX. Tel: 01425 652348