Sauboua signs up with new club

By Joe Hyam

Yves Sauboua made his name as the sommelier of Les Saveurs in London's Curzon Street. He has recently formed the Sommeliers' Club of Great Britain, counting most of the UK's leading sommeliers among its members. If you have been wondering what has happened to him since he left Les Saveurs earlier this year, Sauboua is currently spending a lot of time behind a computer.

But not for long. As head sommelier of Monte's, the club shortly to open in Sloane Street, he will soon be presiding over a cellar again. At the moment he is pricing its contents on his computer but, come September when Monte's doors open, he will be introducing the club's clientele to some remarkable wines to match the menu by executive chef Pierre Schaedelin, recently of L'Hotel de Paris, Monaco.

The core of Sauboua's philosophy is excellence. He wants the club to be known for its outstanding wine, and for the leisurely way it may be discussed. That calls for staff on a scale not usually possible but Sauboua will be assisted by another leading sommelier, Tim McLaughlin-Green, who joins him from Bibendum.

About 70% of the list will be French. The emphasis will be on rare wines from the classic regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhône.

Among white Burgundies, there will be gems such as a Bâtard-Montrachet 1971 from Ramonet and at least four vintages of Le Montrachet. There will be a Richebourg 1971, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1978 from Jaboulet, a Margaux 1961, a Pétrus 1975 and Château Moutons of 1955, 1966 and 1982. A Champagne trolley will offer, for instance, Roederer Crystal 1979, 1982 and 1983. Then there will be treasures such as a single half-bottle of Tokay Essencia 1947.

"That will be expensive," says Sauboua of the Tokay. But he insists that he will limit mark-ups as much as possible. As an indication, a bottle costing £350 will probably sell for £500. He points out that rare wines will be expensive - how else to justify the cost of hunting them down?

Not every wine at Monte's will require a mortgage. Between 10 and 15 wines will be sold by the glass. Among the less expensive will be Côtes du Roussillon at about £12 a bottle, and Bourgueil and Chinon at about £15-£16 a bottle.

An inspired choice in the medium-price bracket is an Alsace Pinot Noir from Hugel. Should you want to follow suit it is listed by OW Loeb (0171-928 7750) at a trade price of £77.51 a case