Serious alsace

Compiled by Joe Hyam

The past few years have seen a slow but steady growth in the sale of Alsace wine in this country. Resistance still comes from a public which confuses these remarkable, varietally labelled white wines with the sweeter, less austere wines of Germany.

But both in specialist wine merchants and in restaurants there are signs that the great qualities of Alsace - concentration of fruit, complexity of flavour and life-giving acidity - are more widely appreciated than in the past.

As good an instance of the region's success is provided by Anthony Byrne Fine Wines which ships the remarkable Alsace wines of Zind Humbrecht, Materne Haeglin and the co-operative Vignerons Reunis de Kayserberg. "Five years ago," says Anthony Byrne, "we were shipping 2,000 cases a year of Alsace wines. Now the figure is 7,000." He puts this success down partly to his own investment in the wines. "We can supply more than 150 wines from Zind Humbrecht alone. There are vintages going back to 1983."

Restaurant customers include Marco Pierre White's The Restaurant, La Tante Claire in London and L'Ortolan at Shinfield, Berkshire.

The quality and variety of the Zind Humbrecht estate were demonstrated earlier this month at a series of tastings organised by Anthony Byrne.

For those who knew the wines, the tastings confirmed their quality, and for newcomers, they awakened a live interest in the region. The majority of wines shown were 1993s and indicated clearly what a fine vintage this is proving.

Zind Humbrecht is known for its attention to terroir and its commitment to low yields which allow the difference in microclimate, soil and subsoil to come through in the wine.

Hence the scale of differences across the Tokay Pinot Gris from the vineyards of Clos Jebsal, Windsbuhl, Heimbourg and Rangen du Thann, and of Rieslings, from Wintzenheim, Gueberschwihr, Clos Hauserer, Turkheim and Herrenweg.

Riesling is as good a point as any to start. Try the 1993 Gueberschwihr at a trade price of £85.44 a case and the 1993 Clos Hauserer at £114.24 a case.

The first has the classic petrolly undertones of Riesling and rich concentrated fruit flavours; the second, powerful acidity and fruit with a hint, but just a hint, of sweetness. Both have much life in them.

For more information about these and other Zind Humbrecht wines, call Anthony Byrne Fine Wines on 01487 814555.