Super tubers

What has enjoyed a reputation as an aphrodisiac, formed the staple diet of the Incas and caused a mass migration of a nation when the crop failed? The humble potato.

This was the introduction to an unusual menu featuring potatoes in every course that was run by Le Méridien hotel on London's Piccadilly in 1990.

Now it is the turn of new executive chef Alain Marechal to fly the flag for the tattie. He kindly hosted a potato variety tasting recently.

Marechal and his brigade baked, boiled, sautéd and puréed ten different varieties of potatoes for the Chef taste test.

Potatoes tasted included: two traditional varieties, Maris Piper and Kerr's Pink; two newly available varieties, Saxon and Fianna; three unusual potatoes, Pink Fir Apple, Congo and Ratte; two salad potatoes, Charlotte and Nicola, which were presented to the taste panel simply boiled; and finally a French potato variety, Agraria, which some chefs currently import from France.

All potatoes were supplied by the National Institute for Agricultural Botany, the scientific organisation responsible for research and development of vegetables and fruit varieties for growers and the food industry.

So which varieties came up trumps? Favourites with the taste panel included:

• Pink Fir Apple, sautéd.

• Agraria, boiled and sautéd.

• Ratte, mashed.

• Kerr's Pink was voted favourite over Maris Piper and the two new varieties, Saxon and Fianna.

The panel found that the older varieties of potatoes were significantly tastier.

MARIS PIPER

Baked: ED Excellent quality - nice flavour.

TP Chestnut flavour - quite pleasant.

Boiled: CH Powdery - not great!

MP Dry and floury. Bland.

TP Floury - school dinners!

Sautéd: AM Nice appearance, dry texture but not a good flavour.

TP Canteen food but passable.

KERR'S PINK

Maincrop potato, popular in Scotland.

Baked: MP Strong woody flavour. Needs no seasoning to improve it.

TP Excellent woody-nutty flavour.

Boiled: AM Good appearance and texture but not a good flavour.

Sautéd: CH Mmmm!

ED Good appearance, good texture and agreeable flavour.

TP Golden brown colour and good taste of crisped potatoes.

Puréed: AM Very nice appearance, good texture and flavour.

MP Melts easily in the mouth and quite creamy.

TP Light, elegant texture and a delicious, deep flavour.

SAXON

Baked: CH Better appearance than Maris Piper or Kerr's Pink.

AM Sticky texture and not a good flavour.

Boiled: ED good firm texture and taste.

Sautéd: TP Soggy texture and "cabbagey", oily unpleasant flavour.

Puréed: ED Good taste.

CH Really nice flavour (woody) and smooth texture.

FIANNA

Baked: ED Excellent in appearance, texture and flavour.

CH Nice appearance, really smooth texture and good taste.

AM Good appearance, fine texture and good flavour.

MP Pleasant flavour with slightly bitter after-taste.

Boiled: CH Powdery taste - yuk!

MP Dirty ivory appearance, slightly gooey texture and chalky flavour.

TP Dull, boring, grey-white appearance.

Sautéd: TP Looks like canteen-fried potatoes, waxy texture and no flavour.

Puréed: ED Texture's so-so and flavour's not very good.

CH Too powdery and dry.

AM Dry appearance, bad texture.

TP Grey unappetising appearance with a heavy coating and the flavour? Yuk!

PINK FIR APPLE

Raw: TP Knobbly pink potatoes that look tricky to peel.

Baked: CH Dehydrated to very little size but a sweet taste.

TP Quite attractive appearance with a chewy texture. The flavour is over-powered by the skin.

Boiled: CH Waxy and smooth and not oodles of taste!

AM Very nice appearance, firm texture and the flavour's good for boiled potatoes.

TP Appearance is yellow and waxy. They would be better scrubbed than peeled.

Sautéd: CH Golden colour - excellent!

AM Good appearance, texture and flavour.

TP Golden brown/creamy flesh with a crisp texture and good flavour.

Puréed: ED Nice colour, good texture and flavour. One of the best.

MP Very creamy texture with a trace of vanilla and nuts in the flavour.

TP Yellow/cream colour with a light and melting texture and a good flavour.

CONGO

Raw: TP Extraordinary purple potato!

Baked: ED Neither the appearance, texture nor flavour is good.

CH Waxy and strange flavour.

Boiled: CH Unusual after-taste - bitter.

TP Watery purple colour with a firm and crispy texture and a chestnut flavour.

Sautéd: AM Not a nice appearance, dry texture and the taste is no good.

MP Looks like miniature rashers of over-fried bacon, with a crunchy texture and nondescript flavour.

TP Not a distinctive flavour but pleasant.

Puréed: AM Nice appearance but not a good flavour.

TP Wonderful purple colour with a waxy, slightly lean texture and thin on flavour.

RATTE

Raw: ED Very good product.

TP Round with a pleasant cream taste - Robuchon's favourite spud.

Baked: ED Excellent appearance - good skin, good texture and good flavour!

AM Very small for a baked potato but otherwise very good appearance. Good texture and flavour.

MP Pale brown, small and wrinkly with a loose thin outer skin which gives way to a waxy, slightly sticky inside. Light nutty flavour.

TP Look like peanuts! Waxy texture and a nice, slightly earthy flavour.

Boiled: ED Excellent - the best!

MP Pale yellow with a firm and waxy texture and nondescript flavour.

Sautéd: AM Good appearance, excellent flavour

TP Golden brown appearance with a good bite and a delicious flavour.

Puréed: ED Good - nice colour with a good texture and excellent flavour.

MP Creamy appearance with a very creamy and sticky texture. The flavour is a little bland but not unpleasant.

TP Creamy, waxy appearance with a smooth, slightly heavy texture that coats the mouth and a mild flavour.

AGRARIA

Boiled: ED Excellent appearance with a firm texture and excellent taste.

MP Rich yellow but slightly discoloured on the edges with a firm texture. Pleasant mild flavour - one that you could easily eat the way it is.

TP Waxy yellow with grey staining and a slightly flaky texture. Firm but a little floury.

Sautéd: CH Wonderful golden colour with a smooth texture and it is really tasty.

MP Golden brown with crisp outer skin and edges and creamy inside. Very pleasant flavour.

TP Very good yellow flesh with a good texture. Firm but crisp. Lots of potato flavour!

CHARLOTTE

Boiled: ED Good yellow colour - very attractive and the texture and taste are good. Excellent.

TP Yellow, good overall colours with a softish texture and a bland taste.

NICOLA

Boiled: ED Appearance only so-so but a good texture and fine flavour.

AM Sticky appearance but firm texture and good flavour.