Touch of refinement
Simon Crannage took over the kitchen of the 18-bedroom Studley Priory country house hotel in Horton-cum-Studley, Oxfordshire, two years ago. But it wasn't until he introduced his latest menu in June that he believed his cooking really began to excel.
"The first year or so I was here, I was getting settled into the hotel and learning about the business," he says. "My cooking is now definitely more polished and refined than when I arrived, and I really feel with this new menu we're on track for three AA rosettes - we currently hold two."
Crannage describes his cooking as "English food with a twist" and prides himself on being imaginative and innovative. "I don't use cookery books and I don't copy other restaurants. I try to be totally original, and lots of trial and error goes into producing my dishes," he says.
On his seasonally changing menu he offers five dishes at each course, and among those he considers most innovative is a starter of pressed foie gras and smoked gammon terrine with elderflower jelly and pear crisps (£11.95). "I make separate miniature gammon and foie gras terrines, so they look pretty on the plate," says Crannage. "The pear crisps give the dish a good contrasting texture, while the jelly is lovely and light and clears diners' palates before they move on to the next course."
Among his other favourites on the menu are a main course of fillet of beef, cèpe tortellini, pavé potato, liquorice glaze, malt cappuccino (£23.95). Crannage calls it a "brave dish", because it combines several strongly flavoured ingredients. "The liquorice glaze is really thick and rich, so it could be quite overpowering if not used properly. But the malt cappuccino I serve with it cuts through the richness and makes the whole dish work perfectly. I'm really pleased with this dish."
At dessert, it's the Pimm's jelly, strawberry and mint tower, cucumber sorbet (£7.95) of which Crannage is most proud, consisting of a whole strawberry set in the middle of a transparent Pimm's jelly. "The sorbet it is served with is made to order and is bright green and beautifully fresh," he says. "This dessert certainly has a ‘wow' factor when it's taken to the table."
Crannage is supported in the kitchen by four other chefs. Together they cook for an average of 15-20 diners at lunch and 25-40 at dinner, the maximum capacity of Studley Priory's Croke restaurant being 40.
"On weekdays our customers are a mixture of corporate and leisure guests and are pretty evenly split between residents and non-residents," explains Crannage. "At the weekend, though, the restaurant is quite full with residents staying here on leisure breaks."
A selection from the menu at Croke restaurant
Loin of rabbit, pressed potato and celeriac, apple pur‚e, lavender gravy, £10.25
Cornish scallops, parsley pur‚e, dried plum tomato and basil salad, chive oil, £10.95
Seared red mullet, cured tomato risotto, egg and dill ravioli, mussel infusion, £10.75
Cannon of lamb, summer vegetables, Gouda and sage ravioli, Merlot gravy, £22.50
Seared fillet of bass, Thai broth, parsley noodles, crab samosa, £22.50
Poached pork loin, sweet corn and prunes, aubergine caviar, sweet potato fondant, £20.95
Hot brochette of mango, lime set cream, coconut emulsion, £7.95
Milk chocolate mousse, crème fraîche and cherry sorbet, fruit and nut wafer, £7.95
Hot gooseberry soufflé, blackcurrant sauce, yogurt ice-cream, £7.95
Croke restaurant, Studley Priory, Horton-cum Studley, Oxfordshire OX33 1AZ. Tel: 01865 351203. Web site: www.studley-priory.co.uk.
