After a few years of misery for the industry, rays of hope began to appear in 2023. Despite cost pressures and closures, we've seen new businesses spread their wings and accolades aplenty
Michelin sprinkles its stardust
Alex Dilling at the Hotel Café Royal, the Ledbury (Brett Graham) and Dede (Ahmet Dede) were awarded two Michelin stars in the 2023 Michelin Guide for Great Britain and Ireland.
No new three-star restaurants were announced, but Michelin confirmed that all holders of the red book's highest accolade had retained their rating, as had all holders of two Michelin stars.
Twenty new one-star restaurants were announced, including Sō-lō in Aughton (Tim Allen), the Samling in Windermere (Robby Jenks), Restaurant Twenty-Two in Cambridge (Sam Carter) and Gidleigh Park, Devon (Chris Eden).
Four restaurants were awarded green stars for sustainable gastronomy: Apricity in London, Crocadon in St Mellion, Culture in Falmouth and Osip in Somerset.
The Cateys celebrate 40 years
Esteemed chef and restaurateur Raymond Blanc and foodservice giant Bill Toner carried off the top gongs at the 2023 Cateys. The Ruby Catey, a one-off award marking the Cateys' 40th anniversary, was presented to Blanc,recognising an individual who has redefined British hospitality during a stellar career spanning more than five decades.
Toner received the Lifetime Achievement Award in recognition of a career spent at leading contract caterers and that has seen him drive CH&Co Group to grow at a staggering rate, while maintaining its people-focused credentials.
The 2023 Chef Award was won by Gareth Ward of Ynyshir, who was described by judges as a maverick who had transformed fine dining, while Clare Smyth of three-Michelin-starred Core by Clare Smyth was named Restaurateur of the Year – Independent.
The Special Award was presented to Jeremy Goring, who through the Hotel School charity has supported those who have experienced homelessness into roles in hospitality.
Culinary institutions close their doors
Much-lauded restaurants including Michel Roux's Le Gavroche, Marcus by Marcus Wareing and Stephen Terry's the Hardwick announced they would close their doors in 2023.
Roux said he had "mixed emotions" as he announced the two-Michelin-star Mayfair restaurant would close for good in January 2024, but added that the decision was "appropriate and right". The final service of Michelin-starred Marcus at the Berkeley hotel in Knightsbridge will be on 26 December after Wareing and the hotel "mutually agreed on a change of direction".
The chef said: "The Berkeley has provided me with the most extraordinary platform over the last 20 years. As a chef and restaurateur, it's allowed me and my team to create some incredible and lasting memories."
Stephen Terry's the Hardwick in Abergavenny closed in October. The chef thanked his staff and guests and said: "It's been emotional. Onwards and upwards."
Crooked House blaze
The Crooked House pub in Himley, Staffordshire, once known as Britain's wonkiest inn, was gutted by a fire on 5 August and demolished without council permission two days later.
The Crooked House was built in the 18th century and became a tourist attraction after mining in the area caused the building to partially sink, allowing visitors to roll coins and marbles uphill along the bar.
The fire occurred two weeks after the building was sold by Marston's brewery to ATE Farms Limited, a company controlled by businesswoman Carly Taylor.
The loss of the landmark sparked outrage in the local community, with West Midlands mayor Andy Street calling for the pub to be rebuilt "brick by brick".
Six people have been arrested and released on bail during the police investigation into the fire.
Return of Jeremy King
Esteemed restaurateur Jeremy King announced he would be returning to the London restaurant scene with a series of new openings, including Le Caprice in London's Mayfair, which will be renamed Arlington.
King, one of the most respected figures in the London hospitality industry, founded the Corbin & King restaurant group with his business partner Chris Corbin in 1981 and ran some of the capital's most beloved restaurants, including the Wolseley and Brasserie Zédel.
The winner of the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2022 Cateys was controversially ousted from the company last year after a battle for control with Thai hotel group Minor International, which has since rebranded the business as the Wolseley Hospitality Group.
Joining King for the reopening of Arlington in the New Year will be Jesus Adorno, a former director of the restaurant who joined its team on the same day as Corbin & King in 1981 and remained at the venue until its closure in 2020.
In spring King will open the Park, a grand café and brasserie in west London, with plans also afoot to relaunch the historic Simpson's in the Strand restaurant.
London celebrates new luxury hotels
September saw the opening of the Peninsula London on Hyde Park Corner, a hotel three decades in the making with a price tag of £1.1b. The long-anticipated opening, with a rooftop restaurant from esteemed chef Claude Bosi, sounded the klaxon for an influx of rooms into the top tier of the London hotel market and was followed 17 days later by Raffles London at the Old War Office in Westminster.
These openings, and that of 1 Hotel Mayfair three months earlier, demonstrate the enduring attraction of the London market, with all three operators making their first forays in the capital.
And there is much more to come, with Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, the Emory in Belgravia and Six Senses Bayswater among the exciting openings planned for 2024.
Foodservice acquisitions
It has been a relatively quiet year for foodservice acquisitions. In June events and fine dining caterer Rhubarb Hospitality Collection (RHC) was acquired by a US-based entertainment group for reportedly more than £100m.
Stadium operator Oak View Group (OVG), which also bought UK caterer Bovingdons in 2022, said it planned to use Rhubarb to improve the food and beverage offer at its arenas around the world. Two months later Blue Apple merged with CH&Co in a deal that the caterer said would strengthen its position in the workplace market.
It joined Gather & Gather and Vacherin as dedicated brands within CH&Co's workplace portfolio, with co-founders Brian Allanson and Ruston Toms continuing to manage the business.
D&D London sold to new investors
D&D London was sold to two new investors in a deal that valued the restaurant group at around £60m, including debt.
Calveton and Breal Capital acquired the business in a move that D&D London said would "open the door to enhanced growth and exciting opportunities".
D&D London operates around 40 restaurants in the UK and overseas, including Bluebird in London, 20 Stories in Manchester and Orelle in Birmingham, as well as the South Place hotel in London.
Calveton and Breal will invest proprietary capital "patient" money, which D&D London said contrasted with institutionally backed private equity funds, which invest with a view to an eventual exit.
New players in foodservice
A number of new businesses launched in the foodservice sector in 2023.
In July independent workplace caterer Savore, founded by the former deputy managing director of Vacherin, secured its first contract.
In September foodservice directors Thomas Pass, Sam Tate and Adam Nossek launched new B&I caterer Thomas & Tate, which they said will focus on being "palpably better" than its competitors.
A month later Eat Social, led by the managing director of Two Hands Food Group, Christina Ronsyn, launched into the London B&I market. The senior team includes former F&B director of WeWork, Simon Wade, and head of food Paul Bloxham who has joined the business from Aramark, where he was UK culinary director for nearly six years.
Alleged Patisserie Valerie fraudsters in court
Four people accused of fraud after the collapse of bakery chain Patisserie Valerie appeared in court ahead of their trial, which has been slated for 2026.
Christopher Marsh, a former director and chief financial officer of Patisserie Holdings, the company behind Patisserie Valerie, and his wife, accountant Louise Marsh, appeared alongside Christopher's former number two, financial controller Pritesh Mistry, and financial consultant Nilesh Lad.
An investigation was launched by the Serious Fraud Office in 2018 into a case which saw the bakery chain which, at one point, had 200 high street sites, tumble into administration with a £94m hole in its accounts in 2019.
Christopher, 49, and Louise, 55, both from St Albans, Hertfordshire, Mistry, 41, from Leicester, and Lad, 50, from Harrow, all face charges of conspiracy to defraud.
Christopher, Mistry and Lad also face five charges of fraud by false representation and one of making or supplying an article for use in fraud. Christopher also faces a charge of making false representations as a company director.
The Restaurant Group sold
The sale of casual dining group the Restaurant Group (TRG) to private equity giant Apollo Global Management for £506m is to complete imminently after gaining shareholders approval.
Apollo will pay shareholders 65p a share in cash, giving TRG, which incorporates Wagamama and the Brunning & Price pub chain, an enterprise value of some £701m.
Analysts had been divided over the deal, with some warning it was too low. It followed a turbulent year for TRG, which saw activist shareholders dispute the direction the company was taking and the renumeration packages offered to senior figures.
In September TRG had announced it would offload its leisure business arm, paying the Big Table Group £7.5m to take its Chiquito's and Frankie & Benny's brands off its hands.
Birch hotels fall into administration
Both Birch hotels closed after falling into administration, three years after the opening of the first site.
The Birch Cheshunt hotel in Hertfordshire closed with immediate effect after falling into administration in November, while the Birch Selsdon in South Croydon was shut a week later after briefly trading under the control of administrators.
The 140-room Birch Cheshunt opened in 2020 and featured two restaurants overseen by chef Robin Gill, as well as a farm, three bars, 20 event spaces, a bakery, fitness studios and screening rooms.
The 181-room Birch Selsdon launched in Croydon this spring under managing director Ayo Akinsete, with two restaurants overseen by chef Lee Westcott. Following the closure Westcott said he was planning to relocate flagship restaurant Elodie to a new site.
Cost pressures and train strikes
Cost pressures continued to hit bottom lines in 2023 and despite campaigning from across the hospitality industry, there were few interventions from government.
There have been signs that inflation rates are easing as we head into 2024, including foodservice inflation, which has fallen for five consecutive months, reaching its lowest level since August 2022.
However, with the National Living Wage set to see the largest increase in its history in April, there will undoubtedly be further challenges in the coming year.
Train strikes have also continued to hamper trade and are believed to have cost the industry some £4b. The RMT union has at last agreed a pay deal, however members of the ASLEF union will continue to strike, causing disruption to services into the New Year.
Obituaries 2023
- William Baxter, founder of Baxter Storey
- Michel Bourdin, chef
- Paul Foulger, former president of the Institute of Hospitality
- Celia Geyer, designer
- Matt Halford, chef
- Lawrence Hoskins, hotelier
- Stuart Johnson, hotelier
- Nico Ladenis, chef
- Rachel Linder, co-founder of Lexington
- Esra Muslu, chef
- Russell Norman, restaurateur
- Dorothy Purdew, Champneys founder
- Brian Stein, restaurateur
- Jock Zonfrillo, chef
- Bill Granger, restaurateur
