Viewpoint: It's time to rid ourselves of reductive views on African food

African cuisines offer up a kaleidoscope of different flavours, which are vastly underrepresented in the UK, says Ebenezer Sogunro

The UK is home to one of the most ethnically diverse populations in the world. In 2018, the Office for National Statistics stated that 13.8% of the UK's population was from a majority ethnic background – with 1.8% of this population being Black African.

This can be seen through the influence on a city's dining culture, in the Indian, Chinese and Middle Eastern cuisines Brits enjoy on a daily basis. However, despite the fact that 1.8% of this ethnic population are Black African, we are still yet to see the representation, modernisation and commercial display of African cuisine in the same capacity as other world foods.

I have more than 10 years' experience within the culinary industry and have continuously recognised this underrepresentation, and it has inspired the concept of Cally Munchy, an Afro-fusion food business that brings visibility, modernisation and commercial display of African cuisine through education, creativity and enriched flavours.

African cuisine in the UK has limited visibility and finding an authentic African dining experience is an elusive pursuit. In a city like London, renowned for its gastronomic diversity, African restaurants and eateries remain tucked away, unsupported, and overshadowed by more established culinary traditions on every corner.

Part of the issue lies in the lack of recognition that African cuisine receives. Many people in the UK are unfamiliar with the nuances and complexities of African dishes, often reducing them to a few stereotypical items, such as jollof rice, plantain or that every Black-owned eatery does jerk chicken. It's a reductive view that fails to capture the incredible breadth of flavours, ingredients and techniques that define African cooking.

Media and promotion play a significant role in shaping public perceptions of food. Unfortunately, African cuisine receives limited coverage in the UK media landscape. Food shows, magazines, festivals and culinary events tend to focus on more mainstream cuisines, perpetuating the idea that African food is somehow less significant or less worthy of attention. This lack of representation makes it challenging for African chefs or restaurateurs to gain the recognition they deserve to even survive.

The modernisation of African cuisine in the UK is about introducing the vibrant and diverse flavours of Africa to a wider audience while staying true to our culinary traditions. Here's how I've embarked on this journey:

Diverse menu: I've curated a menu that represents the breadth of African cuisine. From West African jollof rice to Sierra Leonean oleleh and Ghanaian kelewele, my restaurant showcases the rich flavours Africa has to offer.

Fusion innovation: While staying true to traditional recipes, I've also explored fusion cuisine, blending African flavours with Western and Asian techniques to create dishes that appeal to a broader palate. Our top-selling dishes are jollof rice and peas with katsu curry, or our barbecue oxtail bao. This approach bridges the gap between familiarity and adventure.

Education and awareness: I'm committed to educating my customers about the ingredients, techniques and stories behind each dish. I believe that understanding the cultural context enriches the dining experience.

Local sourcing: I've partnered with local farmers and suppliers to source fresh, high-quality ingredients, supporting the local economy while ensuring the authenticity of our dishes.

Cultural exchange: At our current residency at the Africa Centre, we deliver events that celebrate African culture through food, music and art. These events offer a glimpse into the richness of our traditions.

Community engagement: I actively engage with the local community, inviting them to participate in cooking workshops and collaborations. It's an opportunity for them to not only savour African cuisine but also to create something new.

Tackling the lack of representation and commercial display of African cuisine in the UK is a journey that requires dedication, innovation and a deep appreciation for the culinary traditions of my continent. Through education, fusion and a commitment to authenticity, I'm confident that African cuisine will find its rightful place on the tables of the UK and be celebrated for its diversity, complexity and the stories it tells about the people and cultures of Africa.

Ebenezer Sogunro is a chef and entrepreneur who founded pop-up Afro-fusion dining experience Cally Munchy in 2015. It is currently located at the Africa Centre in London, serving guests Wednesdays-Saturdays