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Critic underwhelmed by Digby Trout's Time and Space

17 April 2009 by
Critic underwhelmed by Digby Trout's Time and Space

The Evening Standard's Fay Maschler is less than impressed with the Digby Trout restaurant at the Royal Institution of Great Britain.

"Struggling inside this overworked, self-conscious menu is a good meal trying to get out. I suspect there have been too many discussions about concepts, the need to cook ‘with a twist' (dreadful phrase) and maybe the contract caterer's bottom line," she writes.

Metro food critic Andy Lynes likes Claudio Pulze's Osteria Dell'Angolo venture, revealing that a ravioli dish was "as good as anything I've eaten at Locanda Locatelli, River Café or L'Anima".

He goes on to say that "if pasta is the jewel in the crown of an Italian restaurant then Osteria Dell'Angolo is sporting some serious rocks in its figurative headgear".

Time Out critic Fiona McAuslan enjoyed her visit to the Britannia gastropub near Victoria Park in east London

"Good food in comfortable surroundings with a nod to hip, but none to pretension: we think The Britannia has the makings of a perennial favourite," she concludes.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

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By Daniel Thomas

E-mail your comments to Daniel Thomas here.

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