Grading the grinds

There's no getting away from it: we are drinking more coffee than ever before. Several studies carried out last year reported evidence of its increasing popularity. Some covered the phenomenal growth in coffee bar chains in the UK; one declared coffee to be the "number one daytime drink outside home" (source: Brasilia UK).

And research by coffee manufacturer Douwe Egberts pointed out that the quick shot of espresso coffee is particularly profitable for caterers. Its report estimated that a 95% profit margin can be made from a single cup. It added: "Customers don't mind paying premium prices as long as it is a decent cup of coffee."

To find out if caterers are getting the right espresso coffee to make these "decent cups", Chef gathered together a panel of tasters from across the restaurant, hotel and café sector - including chefs, food and beverage managers and company managing directors - to sample nine brands. The tasting took place at Rococomodo, Liverpool.

Detailed questionnaires were completed and the tasters were asked to keep in mind what they required from a product on a professional level, as well as their own personal reaction to each coffee. They were also asked to assess the products on an individual rather than a comparative basis.

Espresso way to heavenly taste

Although espresso coffees have many variations, the Chef panellists thought each of the 10 products tasted should at least meet some standard criteria. These included: a long-lasting, creamy head; authentic coffee aroma and taste and a good, dark appearance.

Only one coffee, Matthew Algie's Tinderbox, was deemed to live up to all these standards. As one panellist said: "It smells like coffee really should - that is, not oily - and it has great cream that lasts."

The tasters agreed that it was important for an espresso to look good. They particularly liked both Coffeehouse's Premium Espresso, which had "a dark colour and a good, creamy head," and Redwood Catering's Montes d'Oro which had "an outstanding appearance".

However, very few of the coffees reached these standards. The tasters thought that, although some of the products started off looking good, they soon took on a watery, insipid appearance, sometimes with a taste to match.

Judging criteria

Each product was assessed by the tasters on the following criteria:

• Visual impression: what did the tasters like or dislike about the product's appearance? Did it look greasy or creamy; appetising or non-appetising? What was its colour like?

• Aroma: did the product have a distinctive aroma? Did the aroma match the perception of the coffee and the beans?

• Texture: was the texture of the coffee coarse or fine? What did the tasters particularly like or dislike about it?

• Flavour: was it bitter, natural or artificial? Did it have plenty of taste?

• Overall rating: bearing in mind the cost, quality and value, the tasters were asked to consider whether they would be prepared to serve the product in their own establishments.

The tasters

ELAINE CLARKE is managing director of Baa Bar and Rococomodo (or Modo) in Liverpool, and was our host for the tasting. Baa Bar is a café-style operation serving basic food to about 200 students per day, while Modo is a multi-purpose leisure facility with a 120-seat restaurant, 60-seat lounge bar, pavement coffee bar (seating roughly 150) and conference facilities. Daily, it feeds an average of 5,000 customers consisting of both students and young professionals.

As most sales are coffee and alcohol, this keeps average spend down to £3.51 per customer. Clarke serves Lavazza coffee only, with filter, cappuccino and latte the biggest-selling types. She hopes to get a greater awareness of the products available on the market from taking part in the tasting.

STEVEN LINDSAY is food and beverage manager with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, Liverpool. The hotel caters for up to 300 diners per day (mainly corporate and leisure visitors) in the 140-seat brasserie restaurant, and 550-capacity banqueting facilities.

Average spend on coffee, which is supplied by Glasgow-based coffee company Matthew Algie, is £1.50, while espresso, cappuccino and mocha are the most popular varieties. With all coffees, Lindsay looks for quality, cost and good service back-up. He is looking for new ideas and tastes.

DAVID COOKE is chef-proprietor of the 40-seat, two-AA-rosette Becher's Brook restaurant, Liverpool. The 2000 Garde d'Or National Chef of the Year semi-finalist feeds around 50 diners per day, with average customer spend of up to £60, including wine.

Up to £2.50 is spent on coffee, with the most asked for types being filter, cappuccino and espresso. Cooke uses a specially formulated brand of coffee at Bechers Brook and from the tasting he wanted to compare what other types were available to restaurateurs.

MARTIN AINSCOUGH is managing director of Ainscough's Restaurants (under the holding company of Bispham Green Brewery). His business incorporates three pubs and five restaurants as well as catering on the Mersey ferries. Sittings in the establishments range from 20 up to 200. About 1,000 people are catered for on a daily basis with spend ranging from £2 up to £30, excluding drink.

Coffee spend is £1, with only the Liverpool-based Bellews Coffee being served. From all coffee Ainscough wants a good taste and, importantly, a good price.