Peak performances

September belonged to the South Americans - their tastings dominated London wine events last month. First it was the Chileans, then the Argentinians - on 11 September and inevitably overshadowed by the terrorist attacks in the USA - and most recently the Uruguayans.

The most interesting comparison, though, is between the big two: Argentina and Chile. Although Chilean exports to the UK declined by 6% in 2000, they still command 6.3% of the market, Chile having exported 46.7 million litres last year. By contrast, Argentina has yet to make the breakthrough that its size, as the world's fifth-biggest producer, would appear to warrant. In 2000 it had just 1.2% of the UK market by volume.

Important wineries
Argentina has plenty of good reds to offer, and a number of important wineries, such as La Agricola (Thierrys Wine Services: 01794 507107), Norton (Berkmann Wine Cellars: 020 7609 4711) and Trapiche (Heyman, Barwell Jones: 020 7922 1610), are making good-quality wines.

With the giant peaks of the Andes separating the two countries' vineyards, there are important differences in climate. Chile receives the majority of its rainfall during the winter, whereas Argentina is prone to late summer rains that can disrupt the harvest, along with lethal hailstorms, which come down off the Andes and which can destroy a vintage in minutes. Chile is unlikely ever to see a vintage like 1998, which was a nightmare in Argentina's Mendoza region.

The biggest difference between the two countries seems to be at the top end - the Chilean wines are more reliable. At the Argentinean tasting, there was a "flagship wine" table with 42 top-of-the-range wines to taste. Although some of them retailed for as much as £20 - more, in a few cases - the quality was uneven. Among the best were Finca la Amalia Malbec 1999, £69.64 (Pampas Wines: 01707 393015); Infinitus Merlot 1999, £65 for six (Richards Walford: 01780 460451); Familia Zuccardi Q Tempranillo 1999, about £45 for six (Caves de Pyrene: 01483 538820); Norton Privada 1999, £94.20 (Berkmann); and Gran Lurton Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 1999, £50.52 for six (Antonia Hatfield: 01494 814804). The 1997 Gran Lurton is the current vintage, but the 1999 will be arriving soon.

The Rio Negro Valley in Patagonia is the most southerly wine-producing area in Argentina and has two high-quality wineries: Domaine Vistalba-Fabre Montmayou (Richards Walford), which includes the Infinitus range, and Humberto Canale. Among the Canale wines was the impressive Malbec Reserve 2000 (HWCG, but on-trade supplies are limited: 01279 506512).

At the cheaper end, there are some very good-value wines. Trapiche (Heyman, Barwell Jones) has just launched its Astica range. The attractive, melony Chardonnay 2000 and the easy-drinking Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 are both £43.20. The wines from the Astica range ought to be firm candidates for house selection. Bodega Alta Vista, which was set up by the late Jean Michel Arcaute, has Cosecha Blanco 2000, £45.48, with appealing peach and gooseberry fruit from a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Torrontés.

Chile is gradually expanding its range of grape varieties. Although Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot/Carmenère, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are still the four dominant export varieties, there are increasing numbers of examples of Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Syrah and Zinfandel. Also, more and more Carmenère is being sold under its own name rather than that of Merlot. At the tasting, there was a special Carmenère table with 47 examples; four years ago, it was rare to find any wines owning up to being Carmenère rather than Merlot. Viña Gracia 1999 Carmenère Reserva Especial Callejero, £63.55 (Patriarche Wine Agencies), is rich, a touch earthy and drinking well now.

Suited to Syrah

At the beginning of the 1990s there was no Syrah planted in Chile; now there are nearly 1,700 hectares. One of the leading Syrah producers is Errázuriz, whose vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley appear to be well suited. The 1999 Max Syrah Reserva (Matthew Clark, £57.60) is still youthful and full of blackberry fruit, while the current 1998 is a little leaner in style.

Viognier from young vines is notoriously erratic. However, the Francisco de Aguirre Palo Alto Reservado Viognier 2000, £61.08 (Hallgarten Wines: 01582 722538) comes from the Limarí Valley, one of the most northerly Chilean vineyards, and has good weight and apricot character.

Viña la Rosa (HWCG) is one of the most consistent of Chile's wineries, especially through its La Palmeria brand. Unfortunately, La Palmeria is not available to the on-trade; instead, the Cornellana label is used. The Cabernet/Merlot 2000 is available for about £46.40 and the Chardonnay 2000 and Merlot for about £48.76.