Sweet somethings

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Gennaro Contaldo

Asked what Italians eat at Christmas, most British chefs might come up with panettone. Actually, the large mushroom-shaped cake is a relative newcomer. Although recipes for this Milanese speciality go back to the 15th century, it didn't exist in its present form until the baker, Angelo Motta, created it in 1921. The difference between the traditional seasonal sweetmeats of England and those of Italy is that we have our national pudding, cake and mince pies, but every Italian region has its own favourites. In Sicily, it will be cannoli, looking like fried sausage rolls but filled with custard. In Umbria and the Marche the seasonal offering will be pampetato, a kind of nut bread coated in chocolate icing. Neapolitans must have struffoli. Baci di dama are a Tuscan speciality. Alto-Adige goes for zelte, a rye dough heavy with dried fruit. Venice's galani are shaped like bows and fried. Whereas we tend to wheel out our flaming pudding on 25 December and forget it the rest of the time, Italians keep the dainties they enjoy at Natale on their menus throughout the year. (Click on the links below for further information) [Struffoli (serves about 40 covers)](../chef/recipedetail.asp?recipeID=685) [Chiacchiere - or cenci (makes more than 150 - about 50 portions)](../chef/recipedetail.asp?recipeID=686) [Schiacciata della vendemmia (serves 8-10)](../chef/recipedetail.asp?recipeID=687) [Vin santo](../archive/articledetail.asp?lSiteSectionID=68&lSectionID=31&articleID=40428) [Cotello da pasta](../archive/articledetail.asp?lSiteSectionID=72&lSectionID=31&articleID=40429) [Gennaro Contaldo](../archive/articledetail.asp?lSiteSectionID=72&lSectionID=31&articleID=40430) [Festive cakes and sweetmeats Photo © Adrian Franklin