New species and cooking styles are making seafish and shellfish the darlings of sustainable menus. Will Hawkes reports on the key trends
Smoking Goat is a fine place to gauge the state of London food. This Thai barbecue restaurant in Shoreditch boasts all the signifiers of laid-back, modern dining: craft beer, painted brick walls, relaxed service, venting so exposed you can almost see it blush. An open kitchen occupies the centre of the room, where chef Ben Chapman sends out flamboyantly named and spiced plates, including barbecue mutton massaman curry, smoked brisket drunken noodles and lots of fish dishes, too.
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