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Gentle Ribbing

13 December 2005

Same hotel, same cut of meat but not the same taste or style. A ton (literally) of short ribs are delivered daily to Wynn Las Vegas; six of its restaurants showcase the cut's versatility.

This article first appeared in the 1 November 2005 issue of Restaurants & Institutions (R&I).

R&I is the USA's leading source of food and business-trend information and exclusive research on operators and restaurant patrons. Editorial coverage spans the entire foodservice industry, including chains, independent restaurants, hotels and institutions. To find out more about R&I, visit its website www.foodservice411.com

By Margaret Casey, Special to R&I

Braised Boneless Short Ribs

SW Steakhouse. In the very best steakhouse tradition, Chef Eric Klein calls on big, bold flavors for his take on short ribs ($36). After gentle braising, the meat is coated with mustard, which provides an acidic foil for the beefy richness, and cooked off for serving. Grated horseradish and caramelized shallots play pungent against sweet.

Short Ribs With Potato Gnocchi

Alex. Diners select from a three-course prix-fixe ($110) or a six-course tasting ($145) menu. Chef Alessandro Stratta's entrées include the major proteins of pork, lamb, veal, chicken and finfish, with short ribs representing beef. Braised to succulent perfection, the red-wine sauced beef is plated with puffy billows of gnocchi and candied shallots.

Braised Beef Short Ribs Bourguignon

Daniel Boulud Brasserie.

Braised Beef Short Ribs

Wing Lei. Rich and succulent short ribs are ideally suited to Chinese flavor profiles, a point that is deliciously illustrated in Chef Richard Chen's colorful, boldly flavored conceptualization ($35). Nested atop saffron-infused jasmine rice and sauced with star-anise-flavored broth, the dish includes seasonal vegetables such as asparagus, baby radishes and turnips.

Kobe Short Ribs and Eggs

Tableau. Inspired by steak and eggs but worlds apart, Mark LoRusso's preparation ($19) starts with a crisp disk of potatoes. Atop rests a cushion of shredded short ribs and then scrambled eggs. Béarnaise sauce finishes this morning star. Short ribs are used in ravioli ($22) at lunch and in surf-and-turf at dinner ($110).

Braised Kurobuta Short Ribs

Okada. Chef Takashi Yagahashi, a master of fusing Japanese cuisine with classic French culinary technique, presents his butter-soft rendition of short ribs ($24) in a pot accompanied by fingerling potatoes, cipollini onions, shisito pepper and quail egg in burnt-caramel broth flavored with daikon radish, ginger and soy.




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