Young nettles, San Marzano tomatoes, wild trout

01 March 2007
Young nettles, San Marzano tomatoes, wild trout

Fresh produce

This period before spring sees little new produce coming on to the market. Young nettles are about the only new item available and are a good option in soup. Rhubarb, curly cale, January Kings and Italian San Marzano tomatoes are all in abundant supply. The last of the cherries are arriving from Argentina, while Chilean apricots, peaches and nectarines are also available. Spring white truffles and winter black truffles are good quality at present, and there are American trompette and chanterelle mushrooms, as well as pied du mutton, all on the market.

Source: Fresh Direct 01869 365600 www.freshdirect.co.uk

Meat

An Argentinean ban on beef exports will have a knock-on effect here and lead to beef prices going up in the coming weeks. The quality of English lamb isn't generally quite as good during the break between old- and new-season lamb, with the latter not available on a commercial scale for about a month - coinciding perfectly with Easter - and so pushing prices up. There has still been no decline in turkey or poultry sales and it looks as though any panic has been extinguished.

Source: Fairfax Meadow 01332 861200 www.fairfaxmeadow.co.uk

Fish

The first day of March sees the start of the Irish wild trout season, with wild brown and sea-running trout available in limited quantity at about £8.50 per kg. There have been reasonable landings around the country, particularly Cornish day-boat sardines, red mullet and squid. The price of lemon sole has dropped and mackerel supplies from Spain are strong. There continue to be good supplies of cod, halibut and cod cheeks from the Norwegian and Icelandic sustainable fisheries, with halibut at £12.50 per kg. As a side note, sales of organic Scottish salmon are slowly overtaking wild salmon.

Source: Chef Direct 01275 474707 www.chefclubdirect.co.uk

Seasonal recipe

Traditional Welsh cawl (lamb and vegetable soup)

Ingredients

(Serves about 10 good portions)
1kg of shoulder of lamb
2 onions
4 large carrots
1 swede
2 parsnips
2 leeks
1 small celeriac or 3 celery sticks
60ml sunflower oil
A few sprigs of thyme and parsley
Salt and pepper
2 large potatoes, peeled

Method
Bone out the shoulder of lamb or ask the butcher to do it for you, but keep the bones and ask for some extra. Cut the meat into small dice, removing any large pieces of fat and any sinew.

Peel the root vegetables and cut into a small dice the same size as the meat, clean the leeks and chop, and also chop the onion.

In a large saucepan heat a little oil and fry the meat until brown, remove the meat from the pan on to a tray or plate, then fry the onion for a few minutes but do not colour. Put the meat back in the pan with all the vegetables except the leeks, mix well and cover with cold water (about 2.5 litres) and add the lamb bones.

Bring to the boil, skim and add the parsley and thyme. Simmer for about an hour, adding the potatoes after 30 minutes of cooking and more water if needed. Add the leeks. Season and simmer until tender.

Remove the bones and herbs, check the seasoning and serve.

Bryan Webb, chef-proprietor, Tyddyn Llan, near Corwen, North Wales

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