Artichoke restaurant impresses Guardian critic John Lanchester

21 November 2011 by
Artichoke restaurant impresses Guardian critic John Lanchester

The Artichoke restaurant in Amersham, Buckinghamshire, impressed John Lanchester this weekend, who says chef-proprietor Laurie Gear's cooking is on fire.

The Guardian‘s food critic says the restaurant, which reopened after a devastating blaze two years ago, "is a neighbourhood restaurant that's on top of contemporary trends and executing them with command, precision and a degree of relaxedness".

"The place is still on fire, but now it's in the happy, metaphorical way," Lanchester says.

Meanwhile Italian restaurant Casa Batavia in west London fails to hit the spot with AA Gill, who complains about both the food and service.

"Most of the dishes, which came in silly plates, had temperature issues. They were either worryingly chilly or tepid in parts. Which might have been trendy, or it might just have been forgetfulness and boredom" he moans.

The Daily Telegraph‘s Matthew Norman enjoys the excellent food served at the Greek in Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, while the Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin says she'd cheerfully go back to the 10 Cases, in London's West End, every week

Both the London Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler and Time Out‘s Guy Dimond review Aurelia, the latest venture by high-end London restaurateur Arjun Waney, where a menu of small markedly expensive Mediterranean dishes is served.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

Better Business: The Artichoke >>

Italian chef Nicola Batavia to make London debut >>

By Kerstin Kühn

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