Marcus Wareing's restaurant Pétrus at the Berkeley hotel has overtaken Gordon Ramsay's eponymous Chelsea eatery as the best in London, according to the latest edition of Harden's eating out guide, published tomorrow.
In Harden's London Restaurants 2009, which questioned more than 8,000 regular restaurant goers, the two-Michelin-starred Pétrus retained the best overall title it won for the first time last year but also came top for food and service. Restaurant Gordon Ramsay previously held both titles for eight consecutive years.
Peter Harden, co-editor of the guide, said Wareing is emerging from Ramsay's shadow as the proprietor of what is now the best restaurant in London.
"It is hardly surprising that an impassioned individual concentrating on one establishment has overtaken the flagship of an ever more celebrity-driven empire where the name chef is rarely present," he said.
Speaking to the Evening Standard, Wareing said: "I am incredibly proud to have achieved this accolade, particularly from a respected guide such as Harden's. It is the culmination of many years' hard work from myself and the team and also comes at the perfect time."
Wareing will leave Gordon Ramsay Holdings next month and take over the site of Pétrus to launch his own venture after the restaurant's contract expires on 10 September. It is expected to be called Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley.
Harden's London Restaurants 2009 identified that prices have risen by 4.7% pushing the average cost for a meal to £40 for the first time. While the guide recorded 71 restaurant closures, it found 111 new openings, a trend slightly below the average of around 130.
By Kerstin Kühn
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