With a stellar career history, the couple behind this Henley pub have crafted a menu of British classics with Punjabi roots
Ben Watson is one of the latest in a long line of chefs trained in Michelin-starred kitchens to open a pub. Before returning to his native Henley in November 2022 to take over the Golden Ball with his wife Priya (formerly front of house at Little Social, the Square, Gymkhana and Brigadiers), Watson was Clare Smyth's sous chef at Core. His CV also includes stints at Pollen Street Social, Little Social and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. It's a glittering track record and one that has caught the attention of the Michelin Guide and The Good Food Guide.
Inspiration for a number of dishes on the menu come from Priya, who is Punjabi, and Ben's regular trips to the region, with the likes of braised oxtail, garam masala, bone marrow emulsion and ‘Dal makhni' (£13), which is a personal favourite of Watson's.
"We get our spices from Priya's family in India. Last time we went there, we chose the spices for our garam masala and when we're running low, we order some more through them and they'll grind it and send it to us."
Watson braises segmented and browned oxtail for three to five hours in beef stock flavoured with the masala, which includes cumin, coriander, cinnamon, dried rose petals and spices including black cardamom and black pepper, as well as a traditional mirepoix. The meat is shredded off the bone, mixed with more of the same spices used in the braise and rolled flat. To serve, Watson spoons an onion and bone marrow purée flavoured with garam masala onto the plate, tops with a disc of the meat, which is garnished with a spiced yogurt, coriander and slices of raw button mushroom, and serves with a bowl of black lentil dal made with onions, ginger, garlic, cumin seeds, turmeric, tomato purée, chopped peeled tomatoes, water and cream, finished with more of the spiced yogurt and a sprinkle of nigella seeds.
A recent addition to the menu, roasted breast of honey and thyme duck (£28), illustrates both Watson's dedication to local suppliers and his classical French training.
"I confit the legs in garlic, thyme and duck fat and put the shredded meat in a pomme dauphine mix of choux pastry and mashed potato and deep-fry it. The breasts are slowly roasted in a pan and glazed with some of my Aunt Jemima's honey from her garden in Henley, as well as vinegar and thyme, and I serve them with poached quince, also from her garden."
Watson finishes the dish with celeriac slices that are steamed in the oven in sous vide bags with garlic, thyme and olive oil until tender and then blackened on the flat top, as well as a celeriac purée made with the trimmings, a classic duck and Madeira jus, fresh pear and seasonal greens such as cavolo nero or curly kale.
As a lone chef, Watson is limiting covers to a maximum of 30, although the pub can seat 50 inside and a further 30-40 outside. That changes, however, during the Sunday lunch service that features an amended à la carte that replaces two of the five main courses with roasts, currently sirloin of beef (£29) and pork belly (£24.50) both served with roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables and Yorkshire pudding.
"Sunday lunch is a little bit different. We can do a longer service. It's four hours instead of three, so we can do 50-60 people, but I don't want to do this on my own forever – longevity-wise, it's not a good idea and I know it'll take its toll eventually. In order for us to do more people and also elevate the offering, I need at least one more pair of hands, if not two."
Watson plans to capitalise on the success of a recent Diwali night and have a special multi-course menu on a monthly basis, but says his main ambition is simply to remain busy.
"We didn't open this place to win anything or to get on any sort of list or anything like that. It was more to create a viable business serving the food that we want to serve and the service that we want to give. Whatever comes from that, we welcome it with open arms, but I'm not going to change things to suit that sort of style."
From the menu
Starters
- Squid, salt and pepper seasoning, peanut and almond satay, pickled cucumber, spring onion, coriander £13
- Spiced parsnip, homemade feta, carrot, smoked almond, apple, nigella seeds, chilli £12
Mains
- Pan-fried fillet of Cornish sea bass, 'Aloo baingan', butter chicken sauce, wilted greens £32
- Pan-roasted lamb rump, crushed potatoes, grilled savoy cabbage, lamb sauce £28
- Confit hispi cabbage, grilled hen of the woods mushroom, crispy gnocchi £24
Desserts
- The ultimate hot chocolate – melted artisan chocolate, muscovado foam, toasted meringue £7
Lower Assendon, Henley-On-Thames RG9 6AH
