Menuwatch: York Minster Refectory

Brimmell, the executive chef of York Minster Refectory, first worked for Pern at the Star as a chef de partie before being promoted to sous chef and head chef. Following head chef roles at Wentbridge House hotel near Pontefract and Minster Mill in the Cotswolds, he returned to North Yorkshire to oversee both York Minster Refectory and Pern's other York restaurant, the Star Inn the City. Here at the new 70-cover site, which Brimmell describes as "a slightly higher-end brasserie than the Star Inn the City", the pair have created a menu that he anticipates will change four times a year.

"I think the work that now goes into changing an à la carte menu is so different to what it was 10 or 15 years ago," Brimmell says. "There are allergies to consider, plus all the background work that goes into the recipes and training chefs and front of house. We want to make sure we don't rush those changes just for the sake of changing and get them right."

A starter of cured North Sea halibut typifies that background work. Brimmell breaks down halibut from Hodgson Fish in Hartlepool and cures the fillets in fennel, lemon salt and sugar. After 24 hours the cure is washed off and the halibut hot smoked on the barbecue. Brimmell adds gooseberry preserved in Chardonnay vinegar as well as fennel pollen, bronze fennel and micro fennel, grown for the restaurant by Short Stack Farm near York. Crowdie soft goats' cheese is piped directly on to the plate, while pikelets toasted in cultured butter are served on the side.

"I enjoy the process of curing and smoking in house," Brimmell says, "and it's a skill that we can teach the 12 guys in the kitchen, which is important to me."

To follow, Brimmell serves a 10-oz veal chop supplied by R&J in Ripon, a butcher that he and Pern have a longstanding relationship with. The meat is accompanied by a piccalilli made from carrots, beetroot, cauliflower, courgette, sultanas and mustard. Half is turned into a purée and the other left as what Brimmell calls "the rough stuff". Also on the plate is a smoked eel croquette made by deep-frying a mix of mash, fennel seeds, lemon zest, horseradish and parsley and finished with Madeira jus and fresh horseradish.

Desserts, meanwhile, reference the building's former life by elevating school dinner classics: sherry trifle or a dish of bananas and custard made by pouring a banana-flavoured custard into a banana-split bowl and topping with rum jellies, cinder toffee, torched banana and muscovado sugar. And although Brimmell says he will "never be shy of purchasing an ingredient that is better than what is produced locally", there's Yorkshire parkin "because being in Yorkshire we stick to what people want". A hot syrup made from stem ginger, cider and mixed spice is poured over the top of the parkin, which is then served with a yogurt mousse made from elderflwower cordial and whipped cream aerated through an ISI Gourmet Whip, and a rhubarb and custard sherbet.

It's early days, but bestsellers on the menu have so far included oxtail served on the bone, côte de boeuf to share between two, steak tartare with frites as a main course and the two varieties of oysters recommended each day by Hodgsons. "We don't seem to be able to buy enough oysters in, they're really popular," Brimmell says.

Brimmell and Pern began working on the menus in January and while Pern has the final say and sign-off, Brimmell says the relationship is collaborative. "I've known Andrew for eight years. We trust that whatever the other is doing is for the right reasons and for the good of the customer." And fit for a king, too.

From the menu

• Pressed duck and ham knuckle haslet with cider jelly, boozy prune purée and duck-fat fried parkin £10

• Carpaccio of Yorkshire venison with garden beetroots, Spenwood shavings and rocket pesto £18

• Cauliflower risotto with crispy onion, Mrs Bell's Blue, onion seed cracker and Henderson's Relish £21

• Braised oxtail on the bone with button mushrooms, pearl onion, bacon and smoked potato £24

• Plaice Holstein with fried hen's egg, capers, cornichons, parsley crumb and spring truffle £24

• Coconut rice pudding with pineapple and lime sorbet £10

• Nutmeg custard tart with gooseberries and crème fraîche £11

York Minster Refectory, Deansgate, York YO1 7JA

www.yorkminsterrefectory.co.uk