Service with a smile 21 February 2020 Tom Kemble of the Pass at South Lodge cooks up a pumpkin masterclass and shares why it’s important for chefs to meet their customers
In this week's issue...Service with a smile Tom Kemble of the Pass at South Lodge cooks up a pumpkin masterclass and shares why it’s important for chefs to meet their customers
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The Caterer

Game – cooking with seasonal cuts part 3

28 October 2010 by
Game – cooking with seasonal cuts part 3

PARTRIDGE AND BLACK CHANTERELLE TERRINE WITH POACHED QUINCE, CAMOMILE AND ELDERFLOWER VINAIGRETTE

For the terrine
(Makes 16 portions)
10 red-legged partridges, breasts removed and skinned meat removed from thighs
100g black chanterelles, trimmed, rinsed, patted dry, sautéed and cooled
100ml double cream
1/2 tsp salt
Fresh ground white pepper

Method
Line a plastic terrine mould with silicone paper. Place thigh meat and four of the breasts into a processer and blend with a pinch of salt, add the cream slowly then pass though a sieve. Remove the fillets from the breasts and put to one side.

In the terrine using 8 of the breasts, place a layer covering the bottom completely. Separate half the chanterelles and place a line down the middle of the terrine. Next, using a piping bag and palette knife, cover with a thin layer of mousse. Follow with another layer of partridge breasts then mushrooms and mousse again.

Finish by using the fillets from the breasts to cover the last layer of mousse. Vacuum pack the whole terrine now and cook in a water bath @ 74ºC for 90 minutes. Chill for 24 hours before use.

For the quince
1.5kg quince, peeled, cored and cut in quarters
250g sugar
250ml water
Juice 1/2 lemon

Method
Make stock solution and poach gently, allowing to cool in stock and store for 24 hours before use to enhance the flavour. Cut into nice even cubes to accompany the terrine.

For the dressing
2 chamomile tea bags or 40g loose tea
100ml boiling water
20g clear honey
20ml elderflower vinegar
10ml elderflower cordial
2 leaves finely julienned lemon balm

Method Infuse the tea with the water and honey. When cold remove tea and add the elderflower vinegar and cordial. Serve a slice of the terrine in a deep plate gently flood half way up the terrine with dressing and garnish with quince and lemon balm.

TRADITIONAL ROAST GROUSE WITH SOUFFLE POTATO BASKET, BREAD SAUCE AND CRUMBS, ROASTING JUICES

Ingredients (Serves 2)
2 oven-ready young grouse
1 slice of bread
Butter

Method
Roast for 14 minutes in a very hot oven and rest for at least 10 minutes. Take one slice of bread, cut into two heart shapes, and fry in butter
Take heart and livers out from inside cavity of roasted grouse hand chop and spread on the heart croutons.

For the roasting juices
100ml game stock

Method
Deglaze roasting pan with stock to make a gravy to serve with the bird.

Bread sauce
100ml milk
1/4 small onion
2 cloves stuck into onion
3 slices white bread crusts off and cut into quarters
Fresh nutmeg to taste

Boil milk and onion till the onion is soft. Add bread and leave to soak in milk. Sieve and season, add a little nutmeg to finish you may need to add a little more milk if too thick.

Toasted crumbs
2 slices of bread

Method
Toast well. Cut crusts off and blend in a food processor until you achieve fine crumbs.

Gaufrette baskets

Ingredients
1 large Maris Piper potato
Oil for deep frying

Method
Adjust the serrated blade of a mandolin food slicer to 3mm thickness. Slice potatoes by turning them a quarter turn after each slice (discard the first one). Keep slices in cold water to prevent browning. Layer overlapping to form a basket shape between two ladles or using a proper gaufrettes basket mould and deep fry until crisp.

Soufflé potatoes
Soufflé potatoes are cooked twice. Cut potatoes in slices 6-9mm thickness and soak the sliced potatoes in cold water. First cook at a low temperature of 160ºC stirring around the oil keeping it moving all the time until the potatoes start to become translucent then take out and drain on kitchen paper. To make the potatoes soufflé and crisp up heat fryer to 180ºC.

Place the sliced and blanched potatoes in the fryer. They rise to surface, puff up and crisp almost instantly.

Serve altogether.

BOODLE'S HARE ROYALE, MOUSSELINE POTATOES, GOLDEN BEETS

Ingredients
(Serves 5)
1 whole hare
100g butter
100ml double cream
50g foie gras
Seasoning
500ml game stock
5g chopped truffle
50g chopped shallots
100ml good Claret
100ml Port
5 Parma ham slices

Method
Remove legs and remove all meat off thighs. Save all blood, liver and heart then blend with 100g soft butter roll into a log and chill (to finish sauce later). Remove fillets from saddle and pare away the silverskin. Place thigh meat in food processer blend and add the foie gras, truffle and cream. Add a little seasoning to the forcemeat mix.

Place the slices of Parma ham on to Clingfilm followed by the two hare fillets pipe a generous amount of force meat between the two fillets and roll in the Clingfilm to form a large sausage shape. Vacuum pack and tie with string around to help keep its shape place in a water bath @ 74ºC for 1 hour.

Mousseline potatoes
Ingredients
500g potatoes peeled then cooked in salted water and drained and pureed
100g butter
100ml double cream
Salt and pepper
Beat altogether while hot and serve

For the golden beetroot
Peel and cut in to tube shapes
Cook and glaze with butter, sugar and water until al dente and season before serving

For the sauce
Sweat the shallots and chopped up hare bones deglaze with Claret and port add the game stock and reduce to a coating sauce consistency then pass though a fine sieve. Whisk in the "blood and liver butter" to achieve a rich glossy sauce. Coat the sliced portions of hare serve on mousseline potatoes and garnish with golden beetroot

ROAST TEAL DUCK, SPICED SEVILLE ORANGES, SPROUTING BROCCOLI

Ingredients
(Serves 2)
2 teal ducks (oven ready and barded in bacon approx 250g each, roasted for 14 minutes and rested for at least 14 minutes)
2tbs extra bitter Seville orange marmalade
1 Seville orange or other bitter orange
400ml brown game stock
4 baby leeks trimmed and blanched
150g sprouting broccoli, trimmed and blanched
Dash of Grand Marnier
15g butter

Method
Zest the orange and finely julienne cook in a sugar solution until tender. Cut segments and roughly chop the flesh. Reduce the game stock to a coating consistency. Then add the marmalade the zest and chopped orange flesh. Finish the sauce by whisking in the butter and Grand Marnier this gives a silky texture to the sauce. Check seasoning.

To serve
Reheat the broccoli and baby leeks in a little butter. Remove skin from teal this is inedible and place teal in centre of plate. Arrange vegetables around the duck.
Completely coat the duck with the sauce and serve.

Woodcock careme, Shin of red deer and Torchon truffled muntjac >>

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