Jacobs Media Group is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The food at Thomas Keller's French Laundry pop-up is sublime, says Fay Maschler

03 October 2011 by
The food at Thomas Keller's French Laundry pop-up is sublime, says Fay Maschler

Housed inside department store Harrods, Thomas Keller's French Laundry pop-up restaurant may be a far cry from the rustic original in sleepy Yountville, California, but the food is sublime, says the London Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler.

The three-Michelin-starred US chef is running the pop-up restaurant for 10 days, serving a nine-course tasting menu including some of his most iconic dishes such as salmon cornet and oysters and pearls.

"No ingredient is repeated within the lengthy parade of tastes," says Maschler. "Some are sublime, such as the Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm, which includes imported radishes surely showing the biggest carbon footprint for an eentsy vegetable ever recorded."

Meanwhile, fellow US chef Wolfgang Puck's first European venture, Cut at 45 Park Lane, is a meat aficionado's heaven but the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams find its slick interiors, macho clientele and full-fat menu a bit rich.

The Sunday Times‘ AA Gill enjoys the food at Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi's first restaurant proper in Soho, but says the quality of the food can't justify the inflated prices.

Equally the enormous mark-up on the wine leaves a sour taste in the mouth of the Independent‘s Amol Rajan at Galoupet, while the Observer‘s Jay Rayner's meal at Bistro du Vin is notable for all the things that are wrong, not right

Writing in the Daily Telegraph, Matthew Norman is impressed by the high-end service and chef James Sommerin's complex but unfussy cooking at the Crown at Whitebrook, Monmouthshire.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu?](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/03/10/2011/340560/whats-on-the-menu-a-round-up-of-the-latest-restaurant-reviews.htm) Visit [Guide Girl](http://www.catererandhotelkeeper.com/blogs/guide-girl/) for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

Tabletalk
Tabletalk
If you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to www.catererandhotelkeeper.com/tabletalk

Catererandhotelkeeper.com jobs

Looking for a new job? Find your next job here with Catererandhotelkeeper.com jobs

[Blogs on Catererandhotelkeeper.com ](http://www.catererandhotelkeeper.com/blogs) Catch up with more news and gossip on all Caterer's blogs
[E-newsletters](http://www.catererandhotelkeeper.com/email-newsletters.htm)[ For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our E-newsletters
The Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email

Start the working day with The Caterer’s free breakfast briefing email

Sign Up and manage your preferences below

Check mark icon
Thank you

You have successfully signed up for the Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email and will hear from us soon!

Jacobs Media Group is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The highest official awards for UK businesses since being established by royal warrant in 1965. Read more.

close

Ad Blocker detected

We have noticed you are using an adblocker and – although we support freedom of choice – we would like to ask you to enable ads on our site. They are an important revenue source which supports free access of our website's content, especially during the COVID-19 crisis.

trade tracker pixel tracking