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Critic finds the new Petrus ‘the culinary equivalent of beige'

26 April 2010 by
Critic finds the new Petrus ‘the culinary equivalent of beige'

Pétrus - is criticised by Jay Rayner of the Observer for failing to provide a more exciting eating out experience for a meal that costs more than £100 per head.

He is particularly appalled by the wine list which he describes as "an act of violence" for offering the cheapest wine at £25 and little else below £30.

"Save for the few high points - a remarkable watercress soup, a clever scallop dish - mostly it's the culinary equivalent of beige: dull at worst, inoffensive at best," he says.

Jasper Gerard's thoughts on the Dean Street Dining Room, London W1 are mixed. He likes the look of the place - "There is, quite properly, the faint scent of sex (red banquettes, another wallpaper motif of naked bottoms)" but he can't come to terms with the retro menu.

"Rarely have I found such a dashing place serving such crashing food," he writes in the Daily Telegraph. "It's smoothly done but tradition without a twist can be deadly."

In the Sunday Times, AA Gill cannot contain his joy at Bruno Loubet turning his back on Australia and returning to London to head Bistrot Bruno Loubet at The Zetter hotel, London EC1.

"Bruno manages, in all their hearty meatiness, to make his dishes taste as if they were prepared in a brothel full of expressionists and consumptive romantics," he enthuses. "And, if all that disgusts you, then you're too squeamishly Anglo-Saxon, and you really need a bit of French in you."

In the Glasgow Herald, Joanna Blythman finds there is much to enjoy about the cooking at the sympathetically revamped MacSorley's, a pub which originally dates back to 1899 and has more recently been known as a music venue.

However, she advises the chef, Sam Carswell to stick to what he knows best and drop the frills and fripperies of fine-dining.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Gordon Ramsay's new Pétrus is behind the times, says critic >>

Relaunched Pétrus offers 'faultless' interpretation of classics, says critic >>

Bruno Loubet - back from Down Under >>

By Janet Harmer

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