The New York Times
The powerful voice of Frank Bruni criticised the Gordon Ramsay at the London's decor as "icily elegant" and menu as "cautious" with "most ingredients predictable, most flavours polite, most effects muted".
He adds the most important thing the restaurant lacks is "excitement", referring several times to Ramsay's bad-boy image not being translated into the restaurant's "low-key loveliness".
Bruni criticises dishes for a dearth of inspiration and off-putting concoctions, including "a cloying gummy wedge of turbot poached in St Emilion and a bizarre appetiser combining delicate little langoustine tails with indelicate nuggets of boneless chicken wing".
But he admits liking several dishes including the chorizo and artichoke which "lent plenty of personality to a beautifully roasted fillet of black bass".
The "bold standout" however, was red mullet, served as pan fried fillets that were "framed and tamed perfectly by the brightness, acidity and sweetness of a pink grapefruit vinaigrette", as well as the desserts by Alistair Wise, which were "terrific".
Overall, he adds: "Seldom has a conquistador as bellicose as Mr Ramsay landed with such a whisper. It's not an unappealing sound, but it's nothing that's going to prick up your ears."
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By Emily Manson
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