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Restaurants don't get any better than Sat Bains's in Nottingham, says Zoe Williams

14 March 2011 by
Restaurants don't get any better than Sat Bains's in Nottingham, says Zoe Williams

Restaurants don't get any better than Sat Bains's in Nottingham, according to Zoe Williams, who scores the Michelin-starred chef a perfect 10.

The Sunday Telegraph's food critic is utterly impressed by Bains, who she describes as a huge talent. "By the time we got to the ‘crossover' course (so called because it crosses you from savoury to sweet, by means of mixing feta with vanilla, a cute if abstruse idea) I was thinking, this is too perfect. There's too much perfection here for one human to comprehend," she says.

The Guardian's John Lanchester finds Heston Blumenthal's hugely talked about Dinner lives up to the hype. After initial efforts by staff to hard sell drinks in the bar, the food puts him in a much better mood. He says: " Dinner is a brilliant restaurant, one that embodies Blumenthal's mixture of deep technical craft, ingenious feeling for theatre and astute sense of how to turn a meal into a story."

Meanwhile writing in The Independent, Robert Chalmers says 60 Hope Street in Liverpool is both unique and unforgettable at the same time, offering a menu that sends out mixed messages.

The Times's Giles Coren discovers excellent French food at Chabrot, a new bistro d'amis in Knightsbridge co-owned by chef Thierry Laborde, while writing in The Sunday Times AA Gill says Italian restaurant Five Pollen Street is a work in progress.

Finally The Observer's Jay Rayner heads to New York where he finds David Chang's latest restaurant, Má Pêche, hit and miss, especially because it has declared a pointless war on desserts.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu?](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2011/03/14/337425/whats-on-the-menu-a-round-up-of-the-latest-restaurant-reviews.htm) Visit [Guide Girl](http://www.caterersearch.com/blogs/guide-girl/) for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Restaurant Sat Bains sole new winner of five AA rosettes >>

Sat Bains - the chef of Nottingham >>

Sat Bains as inventive as Heston Blumenthal, says critic >>

By Kerstin Kühn

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