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What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

18 June 2009 by
What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

Bloomberg, 14 June
Richard Vines checks out London's oldest eateries, starting with Wiltons, 55 Jermyn Street, London SW1

Go to Wiltons for beautiful fish, shellfish and game, simply prepared and served without ostentation. This is classic British food as it should be. The staff is professional and respectful. Eat in the oyster bar and you may be served by Patrick Flaherty. He has been with Wiltons for 47 years… Wiltons is quiet as a library and you may not like it if you equate formal and classic with old-fashioned and stuffy. The prices are the main negative. A starter of smoked wild Scottish salmon is 28 pounds. Dover sole is 39 pounds, plus 5 pounds for vegetables. Mushrooms on toast are 10 pounds.

Evening Standard, 18 June
David Sexton is impressed by the generous quantities of gutsy street food and reasonable prices at Keelung, 272 Portobello Road, London WC2

Won Ton in Spicy Sauce (£3.20) sat in a deep, dark chilli-infused oil, aromatic with a slowburn release of heat, which lifted the otherwise stodgy parcels of pork - delicious. There always comes a moment in a Chinese restaurant as enjoyable as this one when you think getting this amount of taste sensation for such a low cost makes most other cuisines seem hopelessly overpriced. This was that moment here. And it only got better. Seafood Congee (£4.60) was a meal in a bowl - sloppy, glutinous rice, agreeably bland, containing squid, big chunks of a white fish, possibly bass, some clams and a couple of giant prawns in the shell.
Keelung - review in full >>

Metro, 17 June
Andy Lynes enjoys the best selection of South African wines in town at High Timber, 8 High Timber Street, London EC4, but finds the food and location to be mediocre

The Jordan Chenin Blanc we selected was worth the short trip. The powerful, aromatic and mouth-filling wine was a surprisingly good match for the complex flavours of pan-fried foie gras with a pudding-like accompaniment of poached rhubarb and crispy fig galette. However, the meagre portion of foie gras compared to the generous helping of rhubarb made me want to shout: ‘Waiter, there's a lump of fattened goose liver in my dessert.' Serving a rib-eye steak on a wooden board with its garnishes of braised mushroom, roast vine tomatoes, onion rings and top-notch hand-cut chips would have been a nice idea except for a big split in the board. Who knows what sort of bacteria might have been lurking down there?
High Timber - review in full >>

By Janet Harmer

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