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What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

03 August 2009 by
What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

The Daily Telegraph, 1 August
Jasper Gerard discovers the Scillies are not the joke he thought they would be and tucks into some fine food at Hell Bay, Bryher, Isles of Scilly

Slowly it dawns that Satan has been spoiling the inmates here, hiring superior caterers since Hell's last review. Assiette of fish with pak choi is deliciously presented on a white oblong plate, decorated with green splodges of parsley oil. The pan-fried bream and halibut are solid, the fresh bass sensational, let down only by flavourless Parmesan risotto. My guinea fowl must have them looking down from Heaven enviously. Nay, they are hammering at the pearly gates begging to be let out so they can join us below. Generous pink slices of game with well-balanced gravy are served on creamy potato with juicy mushrooms and fresh spinach, but the strongest taste here is the herb garden of rosemary. (Dinner, with wine and service, for two, £98. Rating:3.5/5).

The Guardian, 1 August
Matthew Norman is surprised to find good food at reasonable prices at Lebanese restaurant, Ishbilia, London SW1

The fatoush was as good and fresh a salad as I've had in ages, zinging with herby, lemony loveliness and served with two types of delectable bread. The seductively named foul moukala laced broad beans with coriander and olive oil. Hot mezze were just as good. Grilled halloumi came studded with little black dots the identity of which was not resolved by a game of Guess That Spice with the waiter (my fiver was on burnt cumin, so we can rule that out), but the cheese was creamier and less waxen than usual, and, in a great taste and texture combination, went beautifully with spicy lamb sausages (sojuk sadda). (Price per head, with drinks and service, around £30-35).
Ishbilia - review in full >>

The Sunday Telegraph, 2 August
Zoe Williams finds top notch cooking and a lack of buzz at Number 6, 6 Middle Street, Padstow, Cornwall

I had cod with cockles, chorizo and chickpea salad (£14), and this was absolutely lovely. Looking at a list like that, you'd wonder who was going to keep all those punchy ingredients in order, wouldn't you? Well, the cod, essentially, which was subtle but characterful, and had the most beautiful texture. The cockles were salty and chewy and a bit downtown, like smoking between courses (which, by the way, I would never do). The chickpea and chorizo salad was doused in a good oil, which underlined the modern-European classiness. I thought this worked really well . Still, the silence in this place… it was not golden. It was a little bit ominous, as if you thought you'd entered a restaurant when in fact you'd been kidnapped. By an extremely fine cook. (Three courses: £28.50. Rating: 8/10).
Number 6 - review in full >>
The Sunday Times, 2 August
Rachel Johnson enjoys the wow factor of Fifteeen Cornwall, Watergate Bay, Cornwall, where she takes her son, post-GCSEs

Okay, over to Ludo now, to hear how it all went down. (I find almost anything that I haven't had to cook myself delicious, as was the case at Fifteen, even if the portions were a little dainty for me.) He had coppa ham with grilled peaches. "The peach was wet and the ham was dry." Then he had the gnocchi with Angus beef ragu. "The gnocchi were pouchy and squidgy, like doughballs. The sauce was chewy, meaty and lightly herby," he said. "Brilliant," I said, scribbling on the menu. Then he had the pot-roasted pork with cannellini beans. "It tastes a bit like the last thing," he said, removing a stalk of deep-fried sage from his mouth. The chocolate nemesis? "A bit dark for me." Maybe dark for him, but I've certainly seen the light. It's a cracking idea, and it works, to get kids off the streets and into this stunning beachside restaurant to cook and serve. (Rating: 3/5).
Fifteen Cornwall - review in full >>

By Janet Harmer

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