The latest restaurant from Rainer Becker steers away from the traditional with no sacrifice to quality. James Stagg reports
Few could accuse Rainer Becker of ignoring convention, having established two restaurant brands (backed by Arjun Waney) in Zuma and Roka that are celebrated as classics of Japanese consistency. But Inko Nito, on the edge of London's Soho, opened with barely the swing of a saké hammer to herald its arrival. This is a brand that is able to relax a little, with room for experimentation.
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