Menuwatch: The Belgian Arms, Holyport, Berkshire
At the Belgian Arms, executive chef Dominic Chapman and head chef David Thompson offer simple, honest British food. Katherine Alano paid a visit
"It's a pub; a good local pub," says Dominic Chapman, executive chef at the Belgian Arms near Maidenhead, Berkshire. Despite the modest description, his second venture now attracts visitors from outside the local area as well as keeping the regulars happy.
Building on the success of the Michelin-starred restaurant the Royal Oak, Paley Street, Berkshire, Chapman and business partner Nick Parkinson joined forces with entrepreneur Eric Newnham to create NED Pubs. They took over the lease of the Belgian Arms from pub company Brakspear last year, and following a small refurbishment, it re-opened in September.
Located in the village of Holyport, the whitewashed pub oozes English countryside charm. Inside, it has two main areas: the 55-seat restaurant and a bar area that leads to a decked patio overlooking the village pond. The décor is stripped back, with wooden floors, white walls and bare wooden tables and chairs in the restaurant as well as chunky leather sofas in the bar area.
"We really wanted to step away from the formal dining that you would experience at the Royal Oak," says Chapman. "Our aim was to create a place that locals enjoy as our wet trade is very good, but also a place that diners can regularly come back to."
The head chef is David Thompson, who previously worked with Chapman at the Royal Oak as sous chef for three years as well as Le Manoir aux Quats'Saisons.
Created under the close guidance of Chapman, the menu offers simple, honest British food. It changes with the seasons and also offers a selection of daily specials and bar snacks such as crisp Old Spot pig's ears (£3.50), rabbit sausage rolls (£3.75) and salt cod fritters (£2.95).
The home-made touch Starters include a warm salad of Old Spot bacon, mushrooms, baby onions and a poached egg (£8.95); braised Herefordshire snails with garlic, parsley and bacon crumbs (£7.95); and hand-dived Orkney scallops, with home-made black pudding, cauliflower salad and balsamic vinaigrette (£7.95), which is particularly popular.
"We're quite proud of our black pudding and making produce in-house is something that we want to do more of," says Chapman. Pig's blood, apples and onions are sweated down, then oats, liquorice and mace are added. It is poached, iced overnight and then sliced.
Meanwhile the braised feather-blade main course (£16) is fast becoming one of the Belgian Arms' signature dishes. Caramelised in bacon, the beef is braised overnight at 88°C, rolled, vac-packed and reheated in a water bath. At service the sauce is reduced down and the beef glazed before being served with mashed potatoes. A shallot and carrot pickle on the side cuts through the richness of the mash and the sticky sauce with the beef.
"It's something quite simple but a great dish. People do love it and come back for it. When you do dishes that are simple you have to get it right. You can't hide behind technique because it's obvious when it is not right," says Chapman.
All desserts are home-made and include classics such as pear crumble and vanilla custard (£6.50) or apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice-cream (£13 for two). Chapman is keen that the Belgian Arms is seen as a more casual dining experience than its Michelin-starred sibling the Royal Oak.
"We offer great food in a relaxed and friendly environment. I think that people have now got used to the idea that they can come to the Belgian Arms two or three times a week and the Royal Oak is more for a special occasion."
Located a stone's throw from culinary hotspots Bray and Marlow, the Belgian Arms is in good company and once again, this pocket of the UK has something to shout about.
Sample dishes from the menu
Starters
Home smoked salmon, caper berries, mayonnaise & sourdough £7.25
Omelette Arnold Bennett £6.50
Chicory, pear, toasted walnut and Stilton salad £6.25
Main courses
Duck confit, sarladaise potatoes and gravy £12.50
Slow-cooked Old Spot belly pork, mashed potatoes, spinach, apple sauce & gravy £17
Roast sea bream with hazelnut butter £15
Desserts
Carrot and pecan cake, cream cheese, raisins and cinnamon ice-cream £6.50
Chocolate fondant, stout ice-cream £7.95
Sticky toffee pudding and custard £5.50
The Belgian Arms
Holyport Street, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire SL6 2JR
01628 634468
thebelgianarms.com
