The Hong Kong-based Aqua Group's first London outlet, Aqua Nueva, is a restaurant with a ton of money spent on its design at the expense of the kitchen and the concept, according to Jay Rayner.
"Recession? What recession? Look at the Aqua group: they have just invested the GDP of a small African nation in opening a pair of fancy, shiny, look-where-all-the-money-went restaurants," he says.
"What they don't have is a kitchen or a concept firing on all cylinders."
The Sunday's Times' AA Gill is impressed with Tom Kitchin's Michelin-starred restaurant The Kitchin in Edinburgh, where he enjoyed the best and most agreeable dinner he has eaten all year.
The Independent on Sunday's Lisa Markwell is unsure about the artwork, but says the food is sublime at Mark Hix's new venture, Hix Soho, while the Daily Telegraph's Jasper Gerard finds a lot to like about John Torode's new restaurant, The Luxe, but quibbles about the prices.
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By Kerstin KÁ¼hn
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