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Giles Coren applauds the simple approach at pop-up restaurant Street Kitchen

11 October 2010 by

Giles Coren enjoys the food at Street Kitchen, a mobile pop-up restaurant that forms part of the London Restaurant Festival fortnight.

Street Kitchen serves food by Jun Tanaka (Pearl) and Mark Jankel (The Food Initiative), and The Times‘s food critic says he has the perfect restaurant experience: "No menu, no waiters, no lighting, no music, no waiting around, nothing."

Meanwhile The Sunday Times‘s AA Gill finds what he calls the top roadside restaurant in Britain in the House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire.

"Altogether, the food at Bruar is a miracle of loaves-and-fishes proportions. It's probably the best motorway restaurant in Britain," he enthuses.

Writing in The Independent, Tracey Macleod finds a "dream of a local restaurant" in Trullo in Islington, north London, which serves high-quality Italian food at affordable prices.

Lisa Markwell, writing in the Independent on Sunday, says despite the huge meat-and-potato portions at Moran's in Sheffield and the chef's overuse of salt, she'd return thanks to the team's enthusiasm and commitment.

John Lanchester of The Guardian finds well-judged, of-the-moment cooking at a great price at the Hawke & Hunter in Edinburgh and can't understand why the place is empty.

The Observer‘s Jay Rayner says there's a beer for everyone at the third outpost of London-based pub group the Draft House at Tower Bridge - even one for people like him who don't like really like beer.

The Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams dines at Koffmann's where, a challenging pig's trotter aside, she loves the deceptively plain cooking at this smart French restaurant.

Chef Eats Out at Koffmann's at the Berkeley - Book your place >>

London Restaurant Festival: Video Jason Atherton on Pollen Street pop-up >>

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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