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Restaurant Sat Bains' tasting menu is brilliantly executed, says Giles Coren

15 August 2011 by
Restaurant Sat Bains' tasting menu is brilliantly executed, says Giles Coren

Giles Coren says tasting menus only work when they're as brilliantly executed as the one at Restaurant Sat Bains.

The Times food critic has a great meal at the Michelin-starred restaurant in Nottingham and comments: "I sometimes express irritation with tasting menus, challenging combinations and, above all, low temperature water-bath cooking, and this meal only reminded me most emphatically why - because there is no point in doing it unless you can do it like this."

Writing in the Independent, Tracey MacLeod enjoys great food and service at Ondine in Edinburgh, Roy Brett's award winning seafood restaurant.

"You could simply perch at the bar for a quick pre-show two courses, or post-show plate of oysters. Though on the strength of our feast at Ondine, I can heartily recommend the full, forget-the-show, festival-what-festival? three courses," she says.

Jay Rayner of the Observer says that with its urban-rustic food and cool interior, the Crooked Well in Camberwell is Boho London at its knowing best, while according to the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams, Galoupet is a new Knightsbridge restaurant where the food is as elegant as the decor and clientele.

In the Sunday Times, AA Gill visits Soseki, and argues that although it may not be the best Japanese restaurant in London its ethical intentions and pescatorial concerns are laudable.

In London, Time Out‘s Guy Dimond and the Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler enjoy the varied menu at Manchurian Legends the capital's first restaurant serving Dongbei food from the north-east of China, while the Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin finds Madison has friendly staff and a breathtaking view - but the grubby surroundings and wide-boy food let it down.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

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