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Tracey Macleod applauds the Savoy Grill's great British menu

13 December 2010 by

Whatever else may have gone wrong for Gordon Ramsay lately, something has definitely gone right at the Savoy Grill, says Tracey Macleod.

The Independent‘s food critic is impressed with the great British menu served at the relaunched restaurant at London's iconic Savoy Hotel, where chef-director Stuart Gillies in charge of the kitchen. "The reborn Savoy Grill reminds us of how well the Ramsay restaurant operation can work at its best," Macleod enthuses.

Meanwhile the other restaurant at the iconic hotel, the Savoy River Restaurant, gets a much less favourable review from AA Gill, who says it is a sign of how far the Savoy has fallen from its grand panache. Writing in the Sunday Times, the famously acerbic critic hates the food describing the menu as "insecure enough to try and impress merely with girth and size". "Gastronomically it's a mess, incoherent, a committee of middle-management caterers choosing internationally bland and expensively undemanding food to appeal to the widest number of expense-account business drones," Gill complains.

The Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams has an uneasy first encounter with Italian restaurant Trullo, which she finds too bossy and pleased-with-itself for her liking, while in the Independent on Sunday Robert Chalmers finds Assagi to be so authentic you need to be Italian to read the menu.

Giles Coren, writing for The Times, loves the new, tiny tapas restaurant Morito in Exmouth Market.

In the Guardian John Lanchester says Hawksmoor is a place that continues the long tradition of the British steakhouse, though with a big difference as, unlike its predecessors, it does it well, while the Observer‘s Jay Rayner finds great oysters but mediocre service and a menu full of erratic pricing at the second outpost of seafood specialist the Wright Brothers.

For these reviews in full, see What's on the menu](

Family rift could cost Gordon Ramsay £15m and Pétrus >>

Gordon Ramsay hits back at Chris Hutcheson >>

Savoy Grill reopening delayed >>

By Kerstin Kühn

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