Steamed fillets of John Dory with baby leeks, by Mark Hix

INGREDIENTS (Serves four)
4 fillets of John Dory, with the skin on (about 160-180g each)
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
250g baby leeks
2-3tbs extra virgin olive oil
1/2tbs chopped parsley
Juice of 1/3 of a lemon

METHOD Each fillet of John Dory conveniently divides itself into three smaller fillets lengthways along the fillet. With a sharp knife, separate the fillets, cutting through the skin.

Season the fillets with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper. Lay them on a plate that fits in the steamer to catch the juices and steam them with the lid on for 5-6 minutes until just cooked. If you don't have a steamer, simply use a large pan with a tight-fitting lid and set the plate of fish on a trivet or something else that will hold it clear of the water.

Meanwhile, plunge the baby leeks into a large pan of boiling salted water and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and season with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper.

Mix any cooking juices from the fish with the olive oil, herbs and lemon juice. Arrange the John Dory fillets on warmed plates, intertwining them with the baby leeks. Spoon the olive oil and herb liquid over the top.

Taken from Fish Etc by Mark Hix (see review)

RECOMMENDED WINE
The combination of subtle flavours and meaty John Dory presents a perfect canvas to showcase a fine white wine. I'm immediately thinking Puligny-Montrachet from a Domaine known for their transparency and delicacy of touch, such as Etienne Sauzet or Louis Carillon. Loire whites from Anjou, Montlouis or Vouvray would offer an unobtrusive foil, wines with refreshing acidity and a breezy character. Alternatively, a more modest wine could happily play second fiddle, such as a Mosel Riesling Kabinett Trocken, or Albariño from Rias Baixas.

Zeren Wilson is a food writer and wine consultant who has worked in on-trade wine sales. He runs a restaurant review site at www.bittenandwritten.com