What's on the menu: ‘clever cooking' at Oliver Peyton's Keeper's House, says Jay Rayner

22 December 2013 by
What's on the menu: ‘clever cooking' at Oliver Peyton's Keeper's House, says Jay Rayner

Jay Rayner finds "very clever, very modern cooking" from head chef Ivan Simeoli at Oliver Peyton's new restaurant, the Keeper's House, at the Royal Academy, London W1.

Writing in the http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/124328/Wild-Rabbit-hotel-Kingham-Cotswolds-review.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Observer](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/dec/22/keepers-house-restaurant-review-jay-rayner), he says the restaurant is "the sort of thing a clattering, showy city like London needs: a room that's tucked away from view" and praises Simeoli food for its "rugged structural quality".

In a nod to the season to be jolly, the [Independent's ](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/foxlowrextail-restaurant-reviews--its-behind-you-9012644.html)Tracey Macleod's double restaurant review is delivered in true pantomime style. This week she visits Foxlow, the recent opening by Hawksmoor founders Huw Gott and Will Beckett - the heroes of her piece - in Clerkenwell, London EC1, as well as Rextail, the new Mayfair venue by Moscow restaurauteur Arkady Npvikov, who takes the part of "swirly-moustached villain".

[Time Out's](http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/jackson-rye) Guy Dimond visits Jackson & Rye in London's Wardour Street and finds American retro: a smart US diner to salute the Stars and Stripes.

Marina O'Loughlin dines at Rex Whistler in London's Tate Britain where forgives an unappealing menu thanks to its wine list, in the [Guardian](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/dec/21/rex-whistler-tate-restaurant-review).

The [Evening Standard's](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-source-9012193.html) Fay Maschler wonders if Victoria Beckham will be tempted to pop in from her nearby atelier by the puddings at new Battersea restaurant Source.

Chef Adam Smith displays flair and creativity in his cooking, but the portions on offer at the Burlington restaurant at North Yorkshire's Devonshire Arms, could be bigger, says Matthew Norman in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10513947/Union-Street-Cafe-London-restaurant-review.html).


Tom Chesshyre praises the good quality rooms and friendly service at the recently refurbished Tide House in St Ives, Cornwall, in the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/wheretostay/southwest/article3952889.ece).

The [Guardian's](http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2013/dec/20/wild-rabbit-kingham-hotel-cotswolds-review) Sally Shalam is impressed by the stylish quality of The Wild Rabbit in Kingham, Oxfordshire, but suggests you choose your room with care due to the lumpy mattress in hers…

…while Fiona Duncan also visits The Wild Rabbit, for the [Telegraph, where she enjoys the animated dining room, but found the bedrooms lacked personality.

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